May 2019


Books read:

  •         David Copperfield by Charles Dickens
  •         Breathing Lessons by Anne Tyler
  •         The Accidental Tourist by Anne Tyler
  •         Escape from Camp 14 by Blaine Harden

Trails walked:

  •         Upper Pine Canyon Trail near Payson (May 1st)
  •         Haunted Canyon Trail to Tony Cabin in the eastern Superstitions (May 10th)
  •         Warpaint/Old Man/Mid-Life Crisis/National/Corona de Loma loop in South Mountain in Phoenix (May 17th)
  •         Dutchman/Bull Pass/Boulder Canyon/Second Water loop in the western Superstitions (May 20th)
  •         West Baldy Trail near Greer (May 25th)

Song of the month:


Four Peaks from the Second Water trail

In the case of good books, the point is not how many of them you can get through, but rather how many can get through to you. -Mortimer J. Adler, philosopher, educator, and author (28 Dec 1902-2001)


In nature, nothing is perfect and everything is perfect. Trees can be contorted, bent in weird ways, and they're still beautiful. - Alice Walker


The month of May is to the desert, what the month of November is to colder climes.  You start girding yourself for the next 3 miserable months of weather to come.  But this May has been surprising.  In April and May of last year we had 12 days of 100-degree weather, but so far this year only 2 days barely hit 100.  And there have been several days where the high didn’t get out of the 80s!  This is good news for everyone in the desert that doesn’t own an air conditioning repair shop.   For me it means much lower electric bills and less travel time to get to great hikes.  May is also when the Palo Verde trees are in full yellow bloom everywhere.  It is the state tree of Arizona and did you know that both the seed pods and flowers are edible?  You can sprinkle the flowers on your salad and eat the pods like edamame.  So just as the desert wildflowers are dying out, the Palo Verde trees and many cactus start blooming to keep the desert colorful through May and into June.  Speaking of Palo Verde, I was fortunate enough this month to attend a tour of the Palo Verde nuclear power plant west of Phoenix.  It's the most powerful nuclear power plant in the US, provides power to nearly 4 million people, and is the only nuclear power plant in the world not located next to a large body of water.  The engineers providing the tour were intelligent and very excited about their jobs and nuclear technology.  We were able to ask any questions, so I asked about the nuclear waste issue, which is one of the main concerns about this technology.  We still don't have a solution about what to do permanently with the waste so we currently contain it in cement and metal barrels on site.  The eventual plan is to bury them underground at Yucca Mountain in Nevada, but that has hit some political hurdles.  The main talking point from the tour guides is that the waste from nuclear is much smaller than the waste from solar, coal, oil, etc.  The elevator speech is that the nuclear waste from providing energy to 1 individual for their entire lifetime would fit in a coke can.  Other than the waste issue, the other concern, obviously is the possibility of an accident.  My wife and I have been watching the terrific HBO mini series Chernobyl which reenacts the Chernobyl nuclear plant meltdown in the Ukraine (then USSR) in 1986 (which was coincidentally the same year that Palo Verde came online).  It seems that, between Chernobyl and Fukushima (the Japan nuclear power plant that was compromised during an earthquake and tsunami), the safety measures in place now would prevent any kind of accident from taking place, but nothing, it seems,  is a sure thing.  Of course the huge benefit of nuclear power these days, in light of climate change, is that it is very clean and emits no direct CO2.  France gets 75% of their electricity from nuclear energy.  The biggest problem with nuclear energy in the US these days is economic, since they get no government subsidies in the US like the petroleum and coal companies.  Should this change?  I don't have the answers, but it's something that should be studied.


The song of the month I’ve chosen is Lucinda Williams’ “Jackson.”  It’s from her masterpiece of an album Car Wheels on a Gravel Road which won a Grammy for best folk album in 1999.  Every song on that album is great, but this song stays with me long after I hear it.  It’s part breakup song, part road trip song, part emotional recovery song.  And the slide guitar is, well, haunting, beautiful, and perfectly placed.  Rumor was that she initially intended for Emmylou Harris to provide background harmony for the song, but in the end, she felt a male harmony was needed so she chose Jim Lauderdale…and Emmylou has teasingly never forgiven her because it’s such a great song...and well, Emmylou Harris is probably the greatest harmony vocalist alive. Williams has had fairly good commercial success in her career, but I believe she is still under appreciated and under recognized.  This is probably because she's so hard to categorize; is she country, cajun, rock, folk, blues? Well, yes. Two of her following albums “Essence” and “West” are also incredible. Vanity Fair said of her album West: "Lucinda Williams has made the record of a lifetime—part Hank Williams, part Bob Dylan, part Keith Richards circa Exile on Main St. ..."  My wife and I saw her in concert a couple of years ago and she was terrific at 64 years old, still telling stories and playing a mean Gibson guitar.  


The first hike of May took place on the first day of May this year.  Last month I had hiked the lower portion of the Pine Canyon trail, which was nice, but not spectacular in any way.  However, the Upper Pine Canyon trail is spectacular and beautiful.  Hiking Buddy (HB) and I drove up I-17, then east on AZ260 which climbs 4,000 feet in 30 miles between Camp Verde and its intersection with AZ87 (aka the Beeline highway).  The hike starts at a dirt road turnoff which is exactly 1.2 miles north of AZ260, on the right (east) side of AZ87 (this is important because Google Maps does NOT know this location).  The unofficial name of the trailhead here is the Cinch Hook trailhead, named after the Cinch Hook snow play area, just down the road, which is named after a buckle used to tighten horse saddles (is this too much useless information? Tell me).  Once you turn off here, you must open a gate, drive through it, then close the gate, then drive a few hundred feet until you see a sign for the trail and park here.  The sign says it’s 8 miles to the lower Pine Canyon trailhead, but this is way off.  It’s closer to 11 miles since they’ve realigned the trails near Pine.  Our plan for the day was to hike around 3.5 miles down to the Bearfoot bridge (Bear Footbridge? Barefoot bridge? Bare Footbridge?....so many possibilities), have lunch, then climb back up.  It’s about a third of a mile from the car to the edge of the rim where there is a terrific camp spot with great views of Pine Canyon and beyond. Nearly any viewpoint on the Mogollon rim is spectacular and you can access many of them along Forest Road 300 which is a good dirt road that contours along the rim from AZ87 to Woods Canyon Lake.  FR300 is one of the most scenic drives in Arizona and I highly recommend it.  Once at the edge of the rim, after taking some photos, we headed down, down, down to Pine Canyon in 1,000 feet and 1 mile.  Once in Pine Canyon, the trail was very easy and shady, and at about 2 miles we met up with Pine Creek which we followed down to the footbridge.   This section of the hike is magical with the sound of the creek, the huge ponderosa trees, junipers, oak trees, and many others.  At Parsnip spring, the water flowed for a hundred yards down to Pine creek and was covered with what I suppose was parsnip but looked like clover leaves.  It looked like a river of clover.  We spotted a deer bounding across the trail near the bridge; I love watching these animals run through the forest…so graceful.  There were several signs pointing to such places as Darling Rocks, Temple Canyon, and Tiny Cave.  We didn’t take any of these diversions on this trip…maybe next time.  We ate lunch near the bridge, with the sound of the creek for our background music; wandered around this area a bit and then headed back up the rim.  That last mile is a lung burner!    


Taking in the views from the rim


Heading down down down


River of  Parsnip (clover?)
Footbridge was today's destination

























Natural Arch?

Tree Huggers
Walkin' Tree


























David Copperfield was Charles Dickens' favorite novel.  It was, to some extent, an autobiographical novel and Dickens admitted that much when he said it was "a very complicated weaving of truth and invention" (he would have made a great politician).  Written in 1850, it was smack in the middle of Dickens' career when he was 38 years old; written after Oliver Twist and A Christmas Carol, but before Great Expectations and A Tale of Two Cities.  Like many great novels of the time, it originated as a series of monthly magazine installments from 1849 through 1850.  This is an epic novel, coming in at just under 900 pages.  For the most part, it was easy reading, although there were a few sections which were hard to follow, mainly due to the language usage of the time.  It's a great coming of age story (I think they call this bildungsroman in the literary circles where I don't reside) and beautifully portrays the many ways in which a person changes as they grow, learn, and mature (well, at least most people learn and mature...certainly not all...).  Like all Dickens' novels, the characters are memorable and perfectly written.  There's  the cunning meanness of Uriah Heep (yes the 70s band was named after him); the tough and eccentric Aunt Betsey Trotwood; the forever down on his luck but ever optimistic Mr. Macawber; the stoic fisherman Mr. Peggotty; the strict and evil Murdstone brother and sister;  the never ending kindness and unrequited love of Agnes; and so many more.  It takes 900 pages to truly develop so many different characters to such a degree, and then to tell a great story which intertwines all their lives over a period of 30 years.   I loved the portrayal of how David fell in love with various women at a young age, especially with Dora, whom he adored, even though nearly all his friends knew she was not right for him (it took him a few years to figure this out; like it does with so many who fall in love at a young age).  Dickens was socially active in his life and helped improve the lives of children and women in Victorian England.  Like many of his novels, David Copperfield reveals the difficulties encountered by both.  He depicts the difficulties of child labor and being sent off to boarding school at a young age; and portrays the plight of so-called 'fallen women', and prostitutes, as well as society's attitude towards these women and towards married women and their "place" in society.  Many consider this to be Dickens' masterpiece and it's hard to argue with that, especially since, so far, I've only read 3 other novels he's written.  I would put it right up there with Great Expectations. 


Happily, the weather this May has been slow to heat up, so HB and I picked an unseasonably cool day to get in another hike to the remote eastern Superstitions.  We chose the Haunted Canyon trail to Tony Cabin.  Tony Cabin was built in 1919 by homesteader William Tony.   He eventually sold the property in 1924 to George Taylor who died in 1949 and left it to his heirs.  The inconsistent water supply and abundance of bears and mountain lions made ranching too much of a risk, so the property went idle for years until the Superstition Area Land Trust (SALT) bought it in 2008 in order to preserve it and maintain the riparian area, especially in light of increased commercial mining in the area.  William Tony sure chose a wonderful place to build his cabin.  The surrounding meadow is beautiful and peaceful, with nice mountain views, and a small stream and spring.  The drive to the Haunted Canyon trailhead starts just before the mining town of Miami-Globe on Pinto Valley Mine road off US60.  The scenery on the drive is not so beautiful as it takes you through the commercial strip mines dotting the area.  Once again, the Google map lady was a bit confused because mining operations change the configuration of the roads as required, but by following the signs for Forest Road 287, you eventually get to a T junction at around 7 miles from US60.  At this T junction, you turn left to reach the trailhead (turning right at the junction would take you across the bridge and then eventually on to the Miles Ranch trailhead described in the April 2019 blog).  The first 1.5 miles of the trail are along a closed dirt road which follows a creek where we encountered around 4 or 5 water pumping stations, owned by the commercial mines.  Then the road ends and you head up the Haunted Canyon trail #203.  The trail starts off skirting away from the creek to avoid a narrow section of the canyon (which might be interesting to explore some day).  Then it drops back into the creek bed and the remaining walk is riparian heaven.  Dense vegetation, tall shady trees, and the sound of the creek make this hike truly enjoyable.  We can attest to the abundance of wildlife as HB spotted a black bear around 20 yards away (it took off into the brush as soon as it saw us).  In addition to the many lizards and birds we always see on Arizona hikes, we also spotted some deer, a snake (not a rattler), and then we saw something that seemed to not know if it was a snake or a lizard…maybe a skink?  We ate lunch at the cabin which was a perfect setting.  There’s a visitor’s journal in the cabin and so we recorded our names and read through some of the entries…a few scout troops (the kids’ comments are hilarious), and visitors from as far away as Taiwan and Canada.  Once rested up, we headed back the 6 miles to the trailhead.  Another beautiful and perfect day in Arizona. 

Water flowing in Pinto Creek

One of several water pumping stations along the first 1.5 miles

The beautiful meadow where Tony cabin is located

Tony Cabin - a great lunch spot

Angry Tree

Banana Yucca
Trail art

























Pinto Creek
Shadow Hikers


























Breathing Lessons by Anne Tyler won the Pulitzer prize in 1989 and was Time magazine's book of the year.  So why had I not heard of Anne Tyler before?  Probably, because in 1989 we had a 3-year-old and a 1-year-old and life was a sleepless blur of diapers and bottles.  It was only after reading Nick Hornby's "Ten Years in the Tub" that I found her.  Here's what he said about her (among other glowing things): "Anne Tyler changed my life. Before I started reading her books, back in the 1980s, I had no idea that novelists were allowed to do what she did, and still does, namely, write with simplicity, intelligence, humor, and heart about domestic life....I realized that she had been given permission because she's a genius..."  Breathing Lessons tells the story of Ira and Maggie (married nearly 30 years) during a 24-hour period in which they drive from their home in Baltimore to a small town in Pennsylvania to attend the funeral of the husband of Maggie's best friend.  By the end of that 24 hours and 300 or so pages, you feel like you've lived with Ira and Maggie their whole lives.  The funeral turns into part high school reunion and part reenactment of her friend's wedding which helps the reader understand the younger Ira and Maggie when they were falling in love.  Maggie is this beautifully complicated woman whom Ira describes in the novel this way: "It's Maggie's weakness. She believes it's all right to alter people's lives. She thinks the people she loves are better than they really are, and so then she starts changing things around to suit her point of view of them."  Of course, Ira is quite the opposite and the back and forth symphony between them is both beautiful and heart breaking.  At times Ira seems like a jerk, raining on her optimistic parade, and then you read about something incredibly loving and heroic that he did for her and you fully understand why they are still together, even with all their faults.  After the funeral, Ira and Maggie stop by to visit Fiona (their son's ex-wife) and their granddaughter and try to convince them to come stay with them for a weekend.  Maggie is convinced that Fiona and their son still love each other and is secretly plotting to get them back together, which does not end well.  It's so difficult to fully describe her writing, but, for me, it seems to place me in the same location as the characters, almost like I'm sitting in the car or room with them, watching everything unfurl.  Some people read books to learn, some read books to escape and enjoy the plot, some read books for the beauty of the writing.  Breathing Lessons is a book for all those readers. 


The weather, as we’ve reached mid-May continues to be unseasonably cool, so HB and I decided to stay home and do a local desert hike.  We created a 9-mile loop from the Warpaint, Old Man, Mid-Life Crisis, National, and Corona de Loma trails in the southeast section of South Mountain.  The 16,000-acre South Mountain Park is one of the largest city parks in the country.  With 3 mountain ranges and 51 miles of trails, it’s a great local resource for hiking, horseback riding, and mountain biking.  When you look at South Mountain from afar, with its looming radio towers, it seems barren and ugly.  However, on the ground, it offers some surprisingly nice scenery, interesting rock formations, great views, and some Hohokam petroglyphs.  We started at the Corona de Loma trailhead which is really just some parallel parking on Warpaint drive in Ahwatukee, north of Ray road.  The first half mile or so follows the Warpaint trail, then follows a dry wash where it meets with the very steep and rocky Old Man trail which climbs 1,000 feet in a mile to meet up with the Mid-Life Crisis trail.  My theory about how that trail got its name is as follows:  Some old man got hurt on this trail, and when he got home, his wife said, “What are you trying to prove?  Are you having a mid-life crisis or something!”  Well, it’s understandable, because this trail does have some adventure in it.  It requires you to navigate through several boulder piles and includes a bit of scrambling around to find the trail and avoid getting ledged out.  And to top things off, you need to hike off-trail for a quarter mile or so to meet up with the National trail in order to make this a loop back.  The National trail is like a superhighway of trails.  It’s very popular with Mountain Bikers as it traverses the spine of the mountain for 14 miles.  We were only on it for around 2 miles until the Buena Vista road terminus where it connected to the Corona de Loma trail for the hike back down to the car.  The Corona de Loma trail has a much easier gradient than the Old Man trail, and it’s much less rocky.  One of the nice benefits of being able to do a desert hike in mid-May is that you get to see some Saguaro cactus blooms!  This is the state flower of Arizona and is pretty interesting.  Each flower blooms for only a 24-hour period, and during this time they are pollinated by bats at night and birds and bees during the day.  They bloom on the very tips of the saguaro, reaching as high as they can to attract pollinators.  The barrel cactus were also blooming which provided some additional color to the walk.  One other interesting tidbit about South Mountain is that there used to be a Speakeasy hidden near the southwest section of the park during the Prohibition era.  You can see the remains from either the Pyramid or Bursera trails.  We ran into quite a lot of people on this hike, especially on the National trail where we had a nice visit with 3 young people who were staying at a local hostel; one was from New Zealand, one from Germany, and one from China.  So, I guess the trail should now be named the International trail….

Blooming barrel cactus and palo verde trees with hazy Phoenix in the background

Winding through boulders on the Mid-Life Crisis trail

Flying saucer crash landing?

Saguaro gunfight; the one on the left won....

Saguaro flowers blooming

The Accidental Tourist by Anne Tyler won the National Book Critics Award in 1985 and was a finalist for the Pulitzer Prize.  And as great as Breathing Lessons was, this was, for me, even better.  I haven't seen the movie, which was highly regarded but there is no possible way that the movie can come close to revealing the characters as they are portrayed in this book.  Muriel Pritchett is now one of the most endearing and great characters I've EVER read.  Maybe I loved this book so much because of the huge variation in personality traits between the protagonist (Macon Leary) and Muriel Pritchett, and because of how much it was reminiscent of me and my wife.  Not that we are exactly those characters, but I certainly lean towards passiveness, rule following, and being organized and prepared; while my wife is certainly more spontaneous, gregarious, creative, and believes that it will somehow all work out in the end.  In the novel, Macon is married to Sarah and you find very early on that they've lost their 12-year-old son in a violent shooting.  They separate, and Macon moves in with his sister and 2 brothers who all live in their grandparents' home because, basically only they are able to put up with each other, no one else really can.  They are ultra-organized, emotionally detached, and mechanically inclined.  During this time Macon meets Muriel who ends up training his unruly dog, and in time, training Macon to live a bigger life, no longer insulated by his siblings and their house.  Muriel's zest for life in the face of so many challenges is a joy to read.  She lives in a poor Baltimore neighborhood, raising a sickly son, managing several low paying jobs, and helping all her neighbors and family in so many ways that she is a life force to behold.  The title is taken from the travel guidebooks for businessmen that Macon writes for his boss, Julian, who also plays an interesting part in the book.  Eventually Macon's estranged wife, Sarah, finds out about Muriel and decides that a reconciliation of their marriage is in order.  So, Macon has this choice to make, which is beautifully resolved during the last chapter which is set in Paris and is so brilliant that I found myself gasping out loud as I was reading.  What an author!


The month of May continues to be surprisingly cool, so I was able to get in a western Superstitions hike during a visit from our daughter.  So, she and I (along with her dog) set out for the First Water Trailhead, which is at the end of a 3-mile, good dirt road off AZ88, also known as the Apache Trail.  As part of the National Reclamation Act of 1902, it was decided to dam the Salt River in order to provide a more reliable source of water to the Phoenix area.  To build this dam, which would eventually hold Roosevelt Lake (named after Teddy Roosevelt who enacted the Reclamation Act), a road was dug out of an ancient Native American footpath used by Anasazi, Hohokam, and Apache tribes to trade and to move livestock from summer to winter feeding grounds.  The road runs around 40 miles from Apache Junction to the dam at Roosevelt Lake.  From the First Water Trailhead, we made a 15-mile loop combining the Dutchman/Bull Pass/Boulder Canyon/Second Water trails.  I had already walked most of this loop except for the southern part of Boulder Canyon and the eastern section of Second Water.  So, it was nice to have those trails completed.  I wanted to show my daughter the spectacular view from the top of Black Top Mesa and she was not disappointed.  We were also able to find a few of the Spanish petroglyphs along the edge of the mesa (see my February 2019 blog for more info on this mesa).  After enjoying the views and searching for petroglyphs, we headed north up Boulder Canyon where it started to rain, with thunder and lightning.  Luckily, we were well prepared with rain gear and enjoyed the sound of thunder echoing across the canyon as we wound our way back and forth across the wash.  The rain stopped just as we started ascending the Second Water trail up to Garden Valley.    We stopped to check out the ruins near the intersection of the Second Water and Black Mesa trails.  Lots of pottery sherds and an arrowhead were gathered on some rocks and were interesting to hold and ponder about before we left them right where we found them.  The walk through Garden Valley was beautiful, as the sun was trying to poke its way out of the clouds.  A great day in the desert with my daughter....and her dog.

Daughter and dog on Dutchman trail towards Weaver's Needle

Daughter and dad....that hat is nearly as pointy as Weaver's needle....

Searching for petroglyphs with great views

Prickly Pear blooms along Boulder Canyon

Cholla Cactus blooms in Boulder Canyon

Stormy weather looming 

Garden Valley after the rain



Escape from Camp 14 by Blaine Harden tells the harrowing true story of Shin Dong-hyuk’s remarkable life.  He was born in a North Korean labor camp to 2 political prisoners.  There had only been 2 or 3 known escapes from North Korea’s labor camps and none from Camp 14.  But after living his first 23 years in prison, Shin managed to do it with the help of a man who taught Shin about life outside the only place he’d ever known.  This man ended up paying the ultimate price for helping Shin.  The brutality of this camp is frightening.  In many ways worse than the Japanese and German prisons during World War II (those lasted 5 or so years, whereas camp 14 had been in place nearly 50 years).  I won’t go into the details of this brutality because it’s so disturbing, but suffice it to say that after his escape, Shin went through many years of Post-Traumatic Stress Syndrome.  It was fascinating to get this perspective of someone who had never known of any life outside of a prison.  And in this prison, family members are encouraged to inform on each other so there seems to be no place for any kind of love or caring of other human beings. In fact, he was basically living like an animal for 23 years.  He escaped in early 2005 which turned out to be fortuitous timing for him.  This was after the famine of the 1990s and the governments of China and North Korea were somewhat lax about border crossings during this time due to the need for traders to go back and forth to bring food and consumer products.  An interesting side note is that one consequence of the Soviet collapse in 1989 was the stoppage of Soviet financial and agricultural support to North Korea, which was partially the cause of the famine.  Shin’s story is so unbelievable that it had to be vetted by many people, including other escapees, former guards, and humanitarian organizations familiar with these labor camps.  The book was published in 2012, and in 2015 Shin informed the author that he had made up portions of his story.  The author published an updated version with this information.  The major difference was that Shin spent some of his younger years in a different and less strict camp rather than his entire life in Camp 14; however the basic idea of his life and the story in the book remain the same. 


Over Memorial Day weekend, we rented a large cabin in Pinetop, Arizona and stayed with several family members for a great weekend of hiking, fishing, eating and more eating.  On Saturday, my son organized a hike up the West Baldy trail near Greer for 5 of us, including his wife, my sister-in-law, and one of my nephews.  It was a beautiful sunny day, with a bit of wind.  The trail to the Mount Baldy summit is 6-7 miles depending on where you start, but after 4 miles we got blocked by several feet of snow on the trail which we were not prepared for.  So, we dropped our day packs and ate some snacks near a beautiful stream, surrounded by snow.  Mount Baldy contains the headwaters for the Little Colorado River (which ends up in the Grand Canyon) and the Salt River (which provides water for the Phoenix valley).  The summit is sacred Apache grounds and is off limits to non-tribal members without a special permit.  So, the trail ends on top of a ridge where the West Baldy trail meets the East Baldy trail. We started the hike at the Little Colorado parking area which has room for around 10 cars.  The official trailhead with much more parking is a bit further north on AZ273, but parking at the official trailhead also adds more distance to the hike and a couple hundred more feet of climbing.  The first 2-3 miles along the west fork of the Little Colorado river is a beautiful walk through green alpine meadows with the river meandering through it.  This is the busiest stretch of the trail and we met several large families in this area backpacking and camping.  It was refreshing to see so many children in one place not glued to their cellphones; and none of them looked bored!  We started gradually climbing through a thick forest of ponderosa, fir, aspen, and spruce trees.  It soon turns into an obstacle course of huge downed trees from the 2002/2003 bark beetle scourge which killed many trees in Arizona.  Just after this area is where we had to end our hike due to snow cover on the steep trail and no snow shoes or crampons.  It's always great to be hiking in the beautiful outdoors, but when it's with your son, his wife, aunt, and cousin, it just makes it that more special.  

Alpine meadows along the Little Colorado...and a happy dog

More meadows with snow among the pines

Our group headed towards Mt. Baldy

Here's where we stopped due to excess snow on the trail...great lunch spot though!

Headed back to the car


Until next month...happy reading and rambling!