June2019


Books read:
  •         Dracula by Bram Stoker
  •         The Uninhabitable Earth: Life After Warming by David Wallace-Wells
  •         Beloved by Toni Morrison
  •         Moby Dick by Herman Melville


Trails walked:
  •         Picture Canyon in Flagstaff (June 4th)
  •         The National Mall in Washington DC (June 12th)
  •         Mount Peeley Summit near Sunflower (June 21st)
  •         Secret Mountain near Sedona (June 26th)
  •         Brins Mesa near Sedona (June 27th)


Song of the month:

Woodbury Fire burning up the Superstition Wilderness (from Mount Peeley)

The Superstitions are burning.  If you’ve followed my blog, then you know that the eastern portion of the Superstition Wilderness is one of my favorite places in Arizona.  Unfortunately, much of it has burned up in the Woodbury fire this month (see the photo above).  It’s such a special area.  What will happen to the bears?!  How will Circlestone fare (Google it!)? As my hiking buddy and I were walking in that area this spring we commented on all the new growth from the February rains and wondered if that would bode poorly for summer fires.  Our concern was well founded.  I’m now counting the days when the weather cools and we can get up there and assess the damage in person. 

    I attended a conference and lobbying event in Washington DC this month.  The topic was climate change.  In my past, I had been a good citizen and voted.  I occasionally called or wrote my representatives or senators about a topic on which I had a strong opinion.  I had even visited congressional offices in my state.  But this is the first time I’ve actually met with legislators in Washington, DC; on “The Hill.”  And what a great experience it was.  In today’s toxic and divisive political environment, it was inspiring to see citizens of all walks, with causes ranging from ALS, to climate change, to children’s issues visiting their congressional representatives and letting their opinions be known to the people that are representing them.  Did you know that very few legislators have offices in the US Capitol building?  The majority have offices in separate buildings near the US Capitol (Senators in 3 buildings north of the Capitol, Representatives in 4 buildings south).  All these buildings are interconnected with each other and the Capitol via underground tunnels.  There’s even an underground mini subway system for use only by legislators and their staff!  Getting immediate feedback from lobbying is rare, but it occasionally occurs, and I was able to experience it; one week after we lobbied with one Republican Representative, he joined the bi-partisan Climate Solutions Caucus!  If you’re interested to know what my week on the hill was like, and what it was like to lobby in DC, check out this 5-minute video from last year’s conference.  It’s a great summary:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=196&v=rOF1ewoa0Rg

June is when the weather starts getting serious here in the desert.  That means traveling to cooler parts of the state for hiking.  We traveled to Flagstaff, the Mazatzals, and Sedona this month. I even added my 6 mile walk around the National Mall in DC as one of this month’s walks.  In this month’s books I learned a lot about whales, vampires, the impacts of slavery, and climate change.  I hope you enjoy the June blog. 


Song of the Month: I was 10 years old when Sympathy for the Devil by the Rolling Stones came out in December of 1968 on the Beggars Banquet album.  I’m sure my parents hated it, along with most parents of that era.  I didn’t become aware of the song until my high school years (“high” school years?).  I’ve always loved this song for its samba rhythm, rock and roll ranting, it’s “woo-woo” background vocals, and the fact that it made so many people angry when it came out during that pivotal year of assassinations, worldwide protests, and the Tet Offensive.  In my retirement I have taken up the guitar again and as part of my memory improvement plan, I try to memorize song chords and lyrics on a regular basis.  I thought that Sympathy for the Devil might be interesting as an acoustic song (I found out recently that Mick Jagger first played it acoustically to Charlie Watts at his front door).  One thing that happens when you memorize lyrics is that sometimes you actually hear them (read them) for the first time.  And wow!  These lyrics are brilliant.  The song is basically an historical commentary on humanity’s worst behavior, from the treatment of Jesus by the Romans, to the European religious wars, to the massacre of the Russian Romanovs, to World War II, to the Kennedy assassinations (when the album was released late in 1968 the lyrics were changed from "I shouted out who killed Kennedy" to "I shouted out who killed the Kennedys" after Bobby was shot).  The crux of the message, I think, is that humans have both good and evil inside each of us.  And the evil in some humans has unleashed some of the worst events in human history.  You can blame it on the devil, but it’s there in all of us.  When the song came out, the Rolling Stones were excoriated for their evil ways and devil worshiping song.  It probably helped make them even more famous (or infamous to some).  They became the evil opposite of the perceived squeaky-clean Beatles.  There was the rumor that this was the song playing when that woman was killed at the concert in Altamont, but it was actually “Under My Thumb” that was playing at the time. Anyway, check out the video link above which displays the lyrics and develop your own opinion about it.

Quick garden update:  The garden I planted in April is growing nearly as fast as the weeds I’m continually pulling out of it.  Tomatoes and pimento peppers are doing great.  Green beans, cucumbers, green chile and watermelon are struggling.  I made a delicious pasta using garden fresh sliced plum tomatoes and pimento peppers.

Well, summer temperatures are reaching triple digits so Hiking Buddy (HB) and I decided to head up north to Flagstaff for a hike.  Picture Canyon Natural and Cultural Preserve starts in a less than appealing area of Flagstaff, right between a wastewater treatment plant and a natural gas compression plant.  But other than this first taste (…or smell) the rest of the preserve is fantastic.  The city bought this plot of land in 2012 with voter approved funding to improve Flagstaff’s outdoor recreation activities.   An agreement with the wastewater facility provides a year-round reliable water source for the riparian area and its many birds and other wildlife.   There are 5-6 miles of trails in this preserve along with interpretive signs.   There’s even a 1.5 mile stretch of the Arizona Trail! Some of the highlights include a nice waterfall, the remnants of an old railroad trestle, several 1,000-year-old Northern Sinagua petroglyphs, and some nice viewpoints of the small canyon.  We spotted a king snake (or maybe a milk snake) near one of the viewpoints.  King snakes and coral snakes look similar but are very different.  Coral snakes are venomous while king snakes are relatively harmless and not venomous.  So, HB and I were trying to remember the little poem about the color bands on these snakes:  Red touches yellow kill a fellow, red touches black is a friend of Jack…or was it red touches black kills Jack, red touches yellow a friendly fellow…  We decided it was the first one and that it was a king snake but kept our distance just in case…. One of the petroglyphs we saw was that of a snake, but no ancient clues as to color bands unfortunately.  We got rained on a bit, and had some lightning and thunder, but most of the walk was in beautiful 65-degree weather while the valley roasted.  Stopped for a burger and a beer and Bun Huggers, which is a Flagstaff favorite for burgers.  I highly recommend this preserve.  The hiking is very easy and there are several highlights, and it’s free!  There’s not much space for parking at the trailhead, but there are several places to parallel park along the road if it’s crowded on weekends.
Entrance to Picture Canyon

King Snake...we think...
Petroglyph of snake

Nice waterfall in the small canyon





More petroglyphs

Picture Canyon








Riparian area 



I believe they want you to go right here....




I finally got around to reading Dracula by Bram Stoker.  The Irish author published the book in 1897 to modest success, but the book did not become popular until the 1931 Hollywood movie starring Bela Lugosi was released.  Since the movie was released, the book has never been out of print, but too late for Bram Stoker as he died penniless. There have been over 200 films featuring Dracula, which is right up there with Sherlock Holmes, God, and Santa Claus as the most adapted character on film….so, he's got that going for him.  Rather than a straight narration, the story is told through various protagonists’ diaries, newspaper articles, and ships' logs.   That was creative I thought, except for the fact that it was a bit of a stretch to think that one would have time to write in one’s diary in the middle of hunting for a madman that is trying to suck everyone’s blood.  The story begins with Jonathan Harker’s journal entry describing his business trip to Transylvania to arrange London property purchases for a Count Dracula.  Harker ends up trapped in Dracula’s castle, but manages to escape.  There are several other characters that provide journal entries to tell the story of Dracula moving to London to create terror, including Professor Van Helsing who helps to unravel the mystery of vampires from his study of Romanian superstitions.  I enjoyed the book mainly from the standpoint of reading the origination of Dracula and his strengths (dark, wolves) and weaknesses (garlic, crosses) that are so well known now from all the movies adapted for nearly the past century.  However, beyond the story, the writing was at times difficult to understand as past and present tenses seemed to get intertwined in the storytelling and it wasn't always clear exactly what was happening, which I don’t think is what the author was intending. 


I had about 4 hours of free time in DC this month after the Climate conference and before my flight back home.  So, I decided to walk the National Mall and visit the many stunning memorials and buildings in this national treasure.  The day was perfect, upper 60s, lower 70s with cloud cover and a nice breeze.  I decided that I didn’t have time to visit any of the museums as just one of them would likely have taken the entire 4 hours, so I started at the US Capitol building and headed west.  It’s such a beautiful area, with huge shade trees everywhere, manicured lawns, reflecting pools, and magnificent buildings.  I cruised passed the Smithsonian’s Air and Space museum and the castle which acts as the visitor’s center for the Smithsonian museums.  The towering obelisk of the Washington Monument loomed ahead of me and acts as a great landmark to know where you are at on this humongous mall.  For a brief time, this 555-foot monument was the tallest structure in the world, until the Eiffel Tower was built.  I believe it’s still the tallest obelisk in the world.  Just west of the monument is the World War II memorial which I hadn’t seen in person yet as it was dedicated in 2004.  It’s a beautiful design, with 56 pillars (one for each US state and territory) and 2 triumphal arches (one for the Pacific Ocean theater and one for the Atlantic).  There’s also the Freedom Wall with over 4,000 gold stars, each representing 100 US soldiers who died during the war.  A huge fountain in the center plaza makes for a dramatic setting, with the Washington monument directly east and the Lincoln Memorial directly west.  I then headed south past the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, past the National Holocaust Museum and towards the Tidal Basin and the Jefferson Memorial.  On the way I passed some old dudes fishing who said they’ve caught 9-pound small mouth bass in the basin!  The Jefferson Memorial is terrific; it has a huge statue of Jefferson standing in the middle of a rotunda which contains some of his most famous words carved in stone.  Underneath the memorial is a nice little museum with lots of information about Jefferson and his legacy.  Next, I passed the FDR memorial and the MLK memorial, then the Korean war memorial and on to what I believe is the most stunning of all monuments in this stunning place; that is the Lincoln Memorial.  You’ve all seen it on TV, as the backdrop for Martin Luther King’s “I have a dream” speech.  On the walls on each side of the gigantic sculpture of a seated Lincoln are his Gettysburg address and his 2nd inauguration speech carved in stone.  There is nothing like this memorial and I get chills every time I see it.  Next I headed northeast towards the sparse and emotional Vietnam Memorial wall and then east on Constitution avenue towards The Ellipse where you get a great view of the south portico of the White House with its semi-circular columns.  Security was tight everywhere, but especially in the area around here.  I walked by the now 3-year-old National Museum of African American History and Culture which is housed in a very cool looking building that should have been named Wakanda!  The exterior is made up of these geometric patterns which were copied from iron grilles found in historic African American communities in South Carolina and New Orleans.  I wandered past the Museum of Natural History where there were busloads of school children lined up to see giant dinosaur fossils, then strolled through the outdoor National Gallery of Art Sculpture Garden; then up towards the Ulysses S Grant memorial, the Peace Monument and back to the US Capitol building.  A great day in our great National Mall. 

That's me on the east side of the US Capitol building

Supreme Court building

West side of the US Capitol building and its rolling lawns


South portico of the White House from The Ellipse

Vietnam War Memorial

Lincoln Memorial

Washington Monument from the steps of the  Lincoln Memorial

World War II monument

One gold star for every 100 soldiers killed in WWII

Jefferson Memorial across the Tidal Basin

Jefferson Memorial interior

African American museum

National Sculpture Gallery (politicians who've lost their heads??)


About halfway through The Uninhabitable Earth by David Wallace-Wells, the author says, “If you have made it this far, you are a brave reader.”  That is no joke because the first half of this book is about as depressing as Cormac McCarthy’s The Road.  This book was a LOT scarier than Dracula.  Many people have called it “climate porn” for its alarmist take on Climate Change.  He spends the first half of the book describing what would happen to the people on this planet if the average overall temperature were to rise by 2, 3, 4, 5, or even 8 degrees Celsius in the next few decades.  He interviews scientists from all areas to back his projections.  In all honesty, the rhetoric gets a bit old after 140 pages of this.  I get it already, but the author feels that he needs to scare people into action.  He’s trying to do for greenhouse gasses what Rachel Carson did for pesticides in her great 1962 book Silent Spring.  The second half of the book explores various technological, political, and ethical reasons for the crisis and possible solutions, although, for my money, he doesn’t spend enough time on solutions.   I believe that’s where we SHOULD be as a planet now…implementing solutions.  Unfortunately, there are still millions of people denying the overwhelming scientific evidence.  I love all the positive things our industrial world has given us (cell phones, the internet, safe cars, electricity, heating and cooling), but the price for all that innovation and comfort is coming due in the form of more CO2 in the air and a warming planet.  I’m not as negative about our future as Wallace-Wells is, but I do believe that if we don’t start acting soon, the world as we know it will become more and more uninhabitable.  The planet will survive, so whenever I hear people shouting to “save the planet”, I say, don’t worry, the planet will be fine…. there just may not be any humans left to enjoy it…. unless we act…. soon, which is why I’m doing all I can to change the political will to enact solutions.   




HB and I headed up to the Mazatzals to hike the Mount Peeley Summit trail.  Some locals pronounce the mountains Ma-Tuh-Zels, but I tend to pronounce it the way it looks Maz-At-Zals.  There seems to be no sure story behind the name’s origin, likely named by some ancient native tribe and corrupted by Anglo mapmakers trying to translate.  Part of the mountain range is declared as a wilderness area and the Arizona Trail traverses the range from Four Peaks all the way to the Mogollon Rim (around 80 miles).   Much of it is remote and difficult to access.  The road to the trailhead starts at the Mount Ord turnoff from AZ87 (Beeline Hwy) at around milepost 222.8 where you turn left on FR627, drive just over a mile, and then turn right on FR201 for around 9.5 miles to the trailhead.  FR201 is a fairly good dirt road.  There are sections with lots of rocks where you need to go slow, but most of it is decent although very narrow in places which could make for some interesting encounters on a busy weekend.  By the time you get to the trailhead you are at 5,600 feet in elevation, so the heat of the desert has been left behind.  There is a sign at the trailhead about a 68-year-old hiker who went missing up here in 2010, along with information on who to call if you come upon any human remains…thankfully we didn’t, although I’m sure his family would love to know what happened to this poor guy!  I really hope they never have to erect a sign like that for me....although it wouldn't be a bad way to go....The trail is a steady uphill walk, for about 3 miles and 1,700 feet in elevation to the summit.  There are some “scrambly” steep spots near the summit, but overall, it’s a fairly moderate walk.  The first half mile is on the Cornucopia trail which then intersects with the Arizona Trail.  Around 1.5 miles of this hike is on the actual Arizona Trail, so that’s another 0.2% of the trail completed!  One of these days I’m gonna calculate exactly how much of the Arizona Trail I’ve done, just by chance.  But for now, that sounds like too much math.  This area of the Mazatzals was severely burned in forest fires during 2004 and 2012. There are a few scraggly pine trees and junipers, but you mostly see the medium sized bushes and trees you’d expect at this point after a fire.  The highlight of this hike is the spectacular view you get once you are on the summit.  You can see in every direction for miles; the Mogollon Rim to the north, the Superstitions to the Southeast, Bartlett lake and the Verde river to the west.  There’s a jar buried under rocks at the summit where you can record your assent.  The notes I saw go back to 2011.  The latest person to sign was here in April of this year.  The Woodbury fire in the Superstitions was burning big at this time and we could see large plumes of smoke along with miles and miles of trailing smoke headed north and east.  We found a nice shady spot that was sheltered from the wind and had a nice lunch with beautiful Arizona views all around us.  The hike back down was quite easy once we passed the steep scree slope.  Did not see a single person either on the hike or the drive.  Just a couple of deer and a horny toad to keep us company….and of course lots of birds, lizards, and bugs, but the wind kept the bugs at bay. 
Sign at the trailhead, including the notice of the missing 68 year-old hiker

Dead tree shot

Good trail signage, including where on the Arizona Trail you are

Prickly Pear cactus blooms with a view of the road we drove in on

Trail art with Woodbury fire in the background


Summit log jar

Funky looking cactus up on top




"You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows"



Beloved by Toni Morrison was published in 1987 and won the Pulitzer prize for fiction.  It was also a National Book Award finalist.  I see it listed on nearly every “best of” book list I’ve seen and I’m glad that I finally got a chance to read it.  It is powerful.  However, I will admit that I was very confused after reading the first chapter and had to resort to Spark Notes to fully understand the beginning.  I believe that I would have eventually figured it out as the story unfolded, but Spark Notes helped to clarify it.  Maybe it was just my engineering brain not fully understanding the poetic opening.  As the story unfolded, the horrors of slavery, and the personal toll it took on its survivors was a major theme.  It’s set post-Civil War, circa 1873 in Cincinnati, Ohio.  The main character, Sethe (played by Oprah Winfrey in the 1998 film evidently) was living in a “Negro” section of town with her 18-year-old daughter, Denver.  The events that took place during those 18 years between the harrowing birth of her daughter while escaping slavery and present times are extraordinary.  The questions explored in this novel are deep and troubling: To what extremes will someone go to in order to protect their children from a fate they know to be worse than death?  How does a person, or a community deal with individual and collective pain?  Should you hold back your capacity for love when you know that everyone that you could love will likely be gone before you even get to know them?  What is marriage?  What are the bonds between a mother and her daughter?  Are there spirits roaming this earth?   This book was banned in some schools and libraries due some of its terrifying scenes, however the most graphic scenes are described in an abstract sort of way without the graphic description you might expect from a banned book.  More graphic descriptions were used for describing the pain left behind from some of those awful events.  But intertwined in all the pain are beautiful acts of human kindness that provide hope.  Morrison based the book on an 1856 newspaper article she read about the true story of an escaped slave and her daughter. 


In April, HB and I hiked Loy Canyon near Sedona up to where it intersects with the Secret Mountain Trail.  We thought it might be interesting to one day hike Secret Mountain in the summer since it’s at 6,500 feet and would be cooler than the desert and so that's what we did this month.   The biggest obstacle to this hike is that the trailhead is a 3-hour drive from Phoenix, including 25 miles of dirt road.   You have to drive all the way past Sedona, up to Flagstaff, then back down towards Sedona on dirt roads.  The first 20 miles of dirt road are not bad, but the last 5 miles are slow going.  It took an equal amount of time (45 minutes) to drive the first 20 miles as it did to drive the last 5 miles.  But once you are at the trailhead, you know you’re in for a special hike.  The views from the start are spectacular as you gaze down at the red rocks of Loy Canyon and the beautiful buttes and rock formations surrounding it.  This area was heavily impacted by the Rhino/Platypus fire last year.  The trail is around 6 miles each way (12 miles round trip), but we stopped around half a mile short of the end because the last bit would have required even more bushwhacking through burned out manzanita bushes and by then our scratched up arms, legs, and shirts had had enough.  The point at which we turned around had a magnificent view of Long Canyon and the city of Sedona below, so we were good with this finale.  Even though we did get a bit scratched up, it wasn’t like the entire trail was bad.  I’d say about a mile of it was dicey, the rest being fairly moderate with around 2,000 feet of elevation gain in 5.5 miles.  It was a bit challenging to keep on the trail because fires and lack of use tend to make trails disappear, so having a good GPS track helps here.  In addition to the great views, we also explored the ruins of Secret Cabin which was built in the late 1800s by a Mormon family trying to escape persecution for their polygamous lifestyle.  But, based on the size of that cabin (around 20ft by 12ft), I can’t imagine the dude had too many wives because it would have been really close quarters!  The cabin is in a nice setting with pine trees and about a quarter mile from the rim and its views.  There was also a corral and what looks like a catch basin that was built to collect rain water from the nearby washes.  We picked a good day as it was cloudy and breezy with temperatures in the upper 70s.  Another great day in Arizona. 



This is what you see when you step out of your car
Stupendous views - this is Loy Canyon

Secret Cabin - Polygamous family lived here? Pretty small....

Now that's a sizable dandelion 

HB seems to be walking off the edge of the world

Burned up manzanita made for some scratchy bushwhacking

More fire damage 

Artistic Horse Tree?
I think the gloves really tie my outfit together....

Deer!


Wow, right?

Dead Tree Shot

More wow

The day after this hike marked 38 years that my wife and I have been married, so we drove up to Sedona and did a small hike up to Brins Mesa.  It’s around 1.5 miles each way with 600 feet elevation gain and a real nice view, not only of Sedona, but also of the Secret Mountain area that HB and I had hiked the day before!  After the hike, we explored around town (that is code for “she shopped, and I waited outside stores.”) and then ate at the Javelina Cantina before heading home.  A great way to celebrate our anniversary in one of the world’s most beautiful places. 

Here is the view towards Secret Mountain from Brins Mesa in Sedona.

And the view from Brins Mesa back towards Sedona

Brins Mesa Trail

Well, I’ve finally gone and done it.  I’ve read Moby Dick by Herman Melville for the first time.  How is this possible you say?  Well, somehow my very erratic New Mexico education never got around to it, and every time I picked it up and felt its weight, I leaned towards something leaner.  I’ve heard so many good and bad things about this book that I really had no preconceived idea about it.  I have to say that I enjoyed it much more than I thought I would.  I’ve always said that I learn as much from good fiction as I do from good non-fiction. Did you know that Starbucks got its name from the first mate in Moby Dick?  There’s a scene in the book where the captain of another boat is bringing something to the ship and someone yells “It's a coffee-pot, Mr. Starbuck; he's coming off to make us our coffee!”  I learned a lot about whale oil and whale anatomy; and that life on a whaling ship for 3 or 4 years per trip was mainly toil, hardship, and danger, mixed with long bouts of boredom.  There were very diverse racial mixes on whaling ships (Native Americans, Pacific Islanders, Africans, Asians, Whites…).  When you hear that Moby Dick is about mad captain Ahab’s pursuit of a giant whale, you would never imagine that the whale only shows up about 40 pages from the end of this 565-page book.  The remaining portion of the book is allotted to the personalities on the ship, descriptions of whales and the whaling industry, life on board a ship in the 1800s, lots and lots of Biblical and Shakespearean references, brutal descriptions of whale hunting, and of course the tension of the great white whale that lies at the end of the book.  I’m really glad I read this book now, because if I had read it in high school, I think I would have hated it.  When Bob Dylan won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 2016, he talked about this book at length which he had read in grammar school!  He said it was one of the biggest influences in his life and work.  That just goes to show the brilliance of Dylan….I mean he actually understood the deep philosophical meanings in Moby Dick when he was in grade school.   So, if you read Moby Dick in grade school and understood all its meanings, then you too can have the creative success of a Bob Dylan.  If not, then you’ll have to be satisfied with writing long drawn out blogs about White Whale Privilege....

I hope you enjoyed this month's blog.  See you next month!