March 2020


Books read:

  •         Cutting for Stone by Abraham Verghese
  •         Man’s Search for Meaning by Viktor E. Frankl
  •         Educated by Tara Westover
  •         How to Live: or A Life of Montaigne by Sarah Bakewell
  •         The Poisonwood Bible by Barbara Kingsolver

Trails walked:

  •         Second Water Canyon in the Superstitions (March 4th)
  •         Superior/Globe/Salt River road trip (March 13th)
  •         Piestewa (aka Squaw) Peak (various)
  •         Elephant Mountain near Cave Creek (March 25th)


Song of the month:




March in the valley is nearly perfect.  Spring wildflowers are blooming, baseball’s spring training brings visitors…. oh, wait that was canceled.  Well, thankfully there are many fun festivals here this time of…. what, those are canceled too?  At least you have March Madness basketball and its excitement…. never mind, that was canceled.  Well, the NBA and NHL playoffs are just around the…. nope.  You know what you CAN still do though?  Walk and read books.  So, I guess my life hasn’t changed much (although the library did close, but luckily, I have several unread books in my personal library, and maybe I need to consider that E-book thingy I hear people talk about).  You’ve read enough about this pandemic and you’ve received emails from every company you’ve ever done business with saying how they care about you and are doing all they can to see to your needs in this difficult time, blah, blah, blah, so I’ll try not to say too much about the virus and the way it’s been handled, other than to introduce you to Mary Gauthier’s haunting Mercy Now as song of the month in these troubled times. 

OK, well I changed my mind, this is too big, I have to say something. In “The Poisonwood Bible”, one of this month’s books, there is a quote: “The sting of a fly, the Congolese say, can launch the end of the world.”  That quote hits close to home these days, except maybe replace a fly in the Congo with a bat in China.  The message in the book was a double entendre, meant to indicate how small things can impact lives in many ways and also that a disease from a bug can spread quickly and kill many.  The coronavirus has changed the world and left us staggered.  There have been predictions of something like this happening, but most of us choose to ignore those warnings, because they always seem too far away or too unlikely or too alarmist or other people’s problems (sort of like climate change).   But here we are.  What do we do?  Even the experts have differing opinions because we don’t have enough reliable data yet.  I’ve heard of fatality rates from 0.1% up to 10% with it narrowing to 1-3% at this time. And we don’t really know the infection rate. If a quarter of the people in the US get infected and the fatality rate is 0.1%, that is 160,000 deaths; if the fatality rate is 10%, that’s 16 million deaths; and those numbers change greatly depending on how many get infected.  The latest prediction I’ve heard from Anthony Fauci is 100,000-200,000 deaths in the US. That’s about how many people die each year in the US from unintentional accidents (car accidents, falling off ladders, etc.).  Here are the number of deaths in the US in 2018 per the CDC:

Heart Disease
647,457
Cancer
599,108
Accidents
169,936
Lower Respiratory
160,201
Stroke
146,383
Alzheimers
121,404
Diabetes
83,564
Flu/Pneumonia
55,672
Kidney disease
50,633
Suicide
47,173
All other
731,972
Total
2,813,503
Note: there were around 15,000 non-suicide gun deaths in 2018

So infection rate and fatality rate will determine where the number of coronavirus deaths will end up on that chart above.  The big question in front of world leaders is:  Do we put the brakes on the world economy to contain this virus?  The answers differ by country, but containment by isolation seems to be the consensus at this point, especially to prevent inundating our health care system.  But for how long can we keep isolated?  How many businesses will go under and how many jobs will be lost? I certainly don’t know the answer.  I read an article recently from a student in Kenya, welcoming coronavirus to his country.  His message was basically, we are not afraid of you because there are so many other things here than can kill us with greater efficiency.  I thought that was profound, especially after reading 2 great novels set in Africa this month (in Ethiopia and Congo).  

In the 1700s, parts of Europe were purposefully infecting people with mild cases of smallpox (variolation is the term for this) in order to immunize them from contracting the disease naturally.  This process had been used in China in the 11th century and in Africa and the Middle East in the 1500s and 1600s. With variolation, "only" 1-2% died as opposed to the 30% who died if contracting smallpox naturally.  Even with so many people (1-2%) dying from variolation, it’s been credited with significantly slowing the ravage of smallpox in Europe and in America.  George Washington had his troops variolated as he prepared them for the war for independence, and Thomas Jefferson had his entire family variolated (not sure if he included his slaves).  Eventually in 1796 a vaccine using cowpox from cattle became a much safer way to immunize people instead of variolation (interesting note:  vaccine is from the Latin vacca, meaning cow).  We certainly don't want to inject people with coronavirus if the fatality rate from natural contraction is "only" 1-3%, but what if it's 10-15%? I doubt anyone is going to volunteer their baby to get injected with coronavirus in any case.  So, we wait for a vaccine and the necessarily lengthy test period it requires and hope that containment measures keep the infection and fatality rates as low as possible.  

This thing is personal for many of us.  My daughter is an ER nurse, working in a Covid-19 clinic.  My son and his wife have a newborn baby that was born 7 weeks premature (see January 2020 blog) in a city rife with the virus.  One of my past bosses in France has died from the virus. In times such as these, most of us seem to come back to what’s important in life:  Family, friends, community, kindness, health, generosity, tolerance, patience, finding the best in each other.  But as soon as everything gets back to normal, most of us will forget about them as we rejoin the rat race, unless….  There are many bad things happening now and there will be for weeks or months to come.  However, here are some of the positive things I’ve noticed in the past few weeks:

  •         families and couples riding bikes together way more than usual
  •         families having picnics at the park, also way more than usual
  •         families playing badminton in the street
  •         air pollution decreasing due to fewer CO2 emissions(an unintended experiment)
  •         lots of hikers out enjoying the wildflowers (Arizona hasn’t been on total lock-down like other states at the time of publication of this post)
  •         the canals in Venice are clearing up and dolphins are swimming in them
  •         singers in Europe are giving concerts from their balconies for the neighbors to hear…ok this could be a bad thing if the singers are terrible…

Also, here are some of the groups of people I'm thankful for during this crisis:

  • Doctors and Nurses
  • Postal workers
  • Package and food delivery drivers
  • Grocery store workers and the poor teenage kids wiping down carts and handing them to you
  • Athletes and corporations giving their money to those in need
  • Restaurant owners cooking food for health care workers and others in need
  • The Hispanic workers fixing my roof (and many other leaky roofs from all the rains we've had)
  • The people working to keep the internet and wireless lines working
  • Comedians finding the humor in all this
  • People who maintain positive and uplifting attitudes helping to uplift everyone around them

In these divisive times, it’s refreshing to see, and I hope much of it becomes more ingrained in our everyday lives.  However I'm not at all thankful for our politicians and political media.  Unfortunately, this virus has done nothing to close the political divide and seems to have ripped it even further apart; I am very concerned about this because I see no solution as the social and unsocial media have now created two separate universes.  Who will be the one to bring them together?    Is it even possible? More on this in the November 2020 blog I imagine….

This month I’ve read two terrific novels set in Africa, two philosophy books about the meaning of life and how to live, and one memoir about how a young woman was able to overcome a very strange family upbringing and become the best she could be.  I’ve also made excursions into the Superstitions, the Salt River, Spur Cross, and I’ve finally decided to write about my standard workout hike here in the valley.   



Song of the month – Mercy Now by Mary Gauthier:  I’ve only recently stumbled upon this artist, even though she has been making music for 20 years.  Her story is rough.  She was put in an orphanage as a baby (in one of her songs she wrote of her birth mother “I don't know if she ever held me/ All I know is that she let go of me”).  As a one-year-old she was adopted by a dysfunctional family with an alcoholic father.  She abused drugs and alcohol and ran away from home at 15 to enroll herself in rehab.  She started a restaurant in Boston but got thrown in jail for DUI on opening night.  She finally got herself sober and started making music in her mid-30s.  Many of her songs are autobiographical, and she has a LOT of material.  She wrote Mercy Now in 2005 and sang it in her debut at the Grand Ole Opry when Marty Stuart invited her to sing there after he’d heard the song.  It was a moment she would never forget as she was the first openly gay person to perform at the Grand Ole Opry.   Here is an excerpt of the lyrics:

My church and my country could use a little mercy now
As they sink into a poisoned pit it's going to take forever to climb out
They carry the weight of the faithful who follow them down
I love my church and country, they could use some mercy now

 I thought that this song was just what the world needs these days…. a little mercy.


Cutting for Stone by Abraham Verghese:  One of the many joys of reading is coming across a book by pure chance which you end up longing to read each day and dreading the day you finish it.  This was one of those books for me.  On Christmas Day this past year we were celebrating east of Seattle in a mountain town called North Bend.  A woman friend of our daughter’s lived there where she ran her own massage hut.  As she was giving us a tour of her cool little mountain home, I saw she had this book which I had heard about but beyond that knew very little.  She thrust it into my arms and said “It’s great! Here, you take it!”  So, I did.  I want to send her a thank you note!  The book was written by an Indian American medical doctor who was born in Ethiopia.  I’m sure it was just a coincidence that the narrator of the book was an Indian American doctor who was born in Ethiopia too.  It was on the New York Times bestseller list for 2 years after its publication in 2009 and got a boost when President Obama listed it as part of his summer reading list.  

It’s a long book, over 600 pages, but I was happy about this since I was able to spend more time with it.  I enjoy stories that take you to interesting places around the world and, in addition to Ethiopia, this story took me to India, Yemen, Sudan, and eventually to the Bronx.  The narrator begins the story with his birth, along with his twin brother, to a Carmelite nun.  No other details are given yet, but you know there is an interesting story already with twins being born to a nun.  From here, the story goes back and forth between the dramatic delivery and the story of the nun and the hospital’s surgeon who was the presumed father.  The story then moves to the raising of the twins on the hospital grounds there in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia and how their lives become intertwined with the country’s volatile political situation.  The author takes time to describe the twins as young boys, then teens, and adults; along with all of life’s beauty and tragedy along the way. 

I feel like I learned so much while I was being entertained.  Did you know that the first coffee beans on earth originated in Ethiopia?  Or that it is the most populated landlocked country on earth?  The capital, Addis Ababa, sits at 8,000 feet elevation.  The Rastafarian religious sect in Jamaica was based on their belief that Haile Selassie, the Emperor of Ethiopia between 1930 and 1974, was the second coming of Christ (who knew!?).  Ethiopia is known as Abyssinia in the bible.  And many ascribe Ethiopia as the only African country not to be colonized (although the Italians, led by Mussolini, briefly annexed it from 1936 to 1941).  And then there are the medical procedures described in all their gory and amazing detail.  The author knows of what he speaks. 

Here are some interesting quotes and excerpts from the book:

·         A rich man’s faults are covered with money, but a surgeon’s faults are covered with earth.

·         That’s the funny thing about America – the blessed thing.  As many people as there are to hold you back, there are angels whose humanity makes up for all the others.

·         Travel expands the mind and loosens the bowels.

·         Everything you see and do and touch, every seed you sow or don’t sow, becomes part of your destiny.

·         Rosina stood there, beseeching with her eyes, pleading for forgiveness.  But a child’s ability for reprisal is infinite and can last a lifetime.

·         The Hippocratic oath is if you are sitting in London and drinking tea.  No such oaths here in the jungle.  I know my obligations.


Second Water Canyon in the Superstitions:  My hiking buddy (HB) and his friend joined me for a really nice walk in the Superstitions.  Our goal was to find an old mining camp and shaft in Second Water Canyon.  There are some old miners who believe that the famed Lost Dutchman mine is in this canyon…they are still looking.  You can no longer claim a mine in this wilderness area, but it hasn’t stopped people from looking.  In July of 2010 three Utah men went searching for the gold…their bodies were found by hikers in January the following year.  In my opinion the real treasure of the Superstitions is its beauty and its ruggedness.  There is no place like it. 

We started out at the popular First Water Trailhead, then turned left at the Lost Dutchman/Second Water junction to follow the Second Water trail for around three miles.  We started heading off trail south in what I thought was Second Water Canyon and HB kept telling me this didn’t look right on his GPS, but I kept insisting it was.  Well, I was wrong, and we had a nice detour up a small canyon (Third Water Canyon?).  We headed back down the main trail for another quarter mile or so and there was a REAL canyon heading south.  We stopped to have lunch in the shade of this pretty place to fortify ourselves for the walk up the canyon.  There was a LOT of water and we enjoyed scrambling around the pools for around a quarter of a mile to where we thought the mining camp would be.  After some searching, we found remnants of an old metal cot (with a folded-up tent underneath), a handle-less shovel, some old cans and pots and pans, and…. duct tape?  We scanned the hills above us for a mine shaft but couldn’t find any evidence and we had already spent our searching energy in the wrong canyon, so I guess we’ll save it for another time.  We also saw our first rattlesnake of the year on the hike.  HB heard it first and told everyone to stop….it rattled lightly again, and we looked and saw it was around 5 feet away trying to hide from us.  He (she?) was pretty lethargic as I’m sure it was just slithering out of its winter den.  I give it credit for at least trying to warn us.  Good snake!  The hike back was pleasant with temps in the upper 60s and lower 70s.  Another beautiful day in the Supes. 



Water in most creek crossings from all the rain

Sun reflections


"3rd Water Canyon"

2nd Water Canyon scramble


2nd Water Canyon reflections

Garden Valley with "just the tip!" of Weaver's Needle

Saguaro lovers



Grassy area near the mining camp

Mining camp tools

Old cot and tent

Arch, rock, water

The rugged Superstitions



First rattlesnake of the season


Man’s Search for Meaning by Victor E. Frankl:  This book, published in German in 1946 and in English in 1959, has sold over 12 million copies and was voted one of the ten most influential books in a Library of Congress survey.  It has influenced many self-help gurus including Stephen Covey and his “Seven Habits of Highly Effective People.”  But it has also come under some criticism from Holocaust scholars due to the author’s contention that one’s attitude was a major determinant of who lived and who didn’t.  A favorite quote of Frankl's which was repeated in the book multiple times was Nietzsche's 'He who has a why to live can bear with almost any how.’

The book is separated into 2 basic sections (my version also had a 1984 postscript from the author on something called Tragic Optimism, which I didn’t really understand well).  The first section is sort of a memoir of his time spent in Nazi concentration camps at Auschwitz and Dachau.  As any holocaust description, the suffering encountered by these poor souls is horrendous and heart wrenching. We’ve all heard the stories or seen the pictures and videos.  The second section deals with his field of psychological study called logotherapy and how his experience in the concentration camps helped to hone his view on how to resolve his patients’ mental ills.  Logos, in Greek philosophy and theology, means the divine reason implicit in the cosmos, ordering it and giving it form and meaning.  What Frankl did was help his patients find the specific meaning in their lives, and once they found their own personal meaning, they would be healed.   He admits that there are other psychological disorders in which this therapy would not work, however he believed that it could work in most cases of depression and anxiety. 

Although I found the message somewhat simplistic, I totally agree with it.  It seems implicit to me that in order to have a happy and fulfilling life, there must be some specific drive towards an end (meaning), whether it’s a social cause you believe in or helping someone you believe in or creating something you believe in or even the desire to do good enough works to make it into heaven.  In the concentration camps he could tell when someone was going to die – they gave up believing in a future; whereas the ones who survived kept alive in their heads either a family member or a piece of work they’ve created or will create in the future. 

Here are some of the excerpts from the book which I found interesting:

The more one forgets himself – by giving himself to a cause to serve or to another person to love – the more human he is and the more he actualizes himself. 

The meaning of life always changes, but it never ceases to be.

You can discover meaning in your life:
  •         By creating a work or doing a deed
  •         By experiencing something or encountering someone
  •         By the attitude we take toward unavoidable suffering
When we are no longer able to change a situation (like cancer), then we are challenged to change ourselves.


Superior/Globe/Salt River road trip:  Four straight days of rain in the valley put the kibosh on hiking in mid-March, so I decided to take a road trip instead.  My daughter was guiding some raft trips down the Salt River near Globe and she needed some of her gear which was being stored at our house.  So, I used this as my excuse for a road trip.  It was raining as I headed east on US60 towards the old mining town of Superior.  The only stops I’ve ever made here were either for gas, or for Mexican food at one of the highway-stops right on US60.  I had never visited the historic downtown area.  So, I parked the car on Main street and wandered around a bit and took some photos of the interesting murals and old buildings.  Superior was named after a silver mine in the area called “Lake Superior” that was owned by folks from Michigan.  The steep cliffs rising above the town to the east are called Apache Leap, named after a group of 75 Apache warriors who were cornered by the US cavalry in the 1870s and decided to leap to their deaths rather than be captured.  Another interesting fact is that Wyatt Earp’s common law wife is buried in the cemetery here; she committed suicide at the age of 38 after becoming destitute. 

Next, I drove further east to Globe where I visited the Besh-Ba-Gowah archaeological park and museum (the name translates to Place of Metal which is appropriate for this mining area).  The Salado Indians inhabited this area from 1250-1400 CE and this site has been excavated at various times during the 1900s.  It’s a beautifully restored village which also has an unexcavated area to give you an idea of the work involved to show what these places really looked like.  The small museum has many samples of arrowheads, pottery, bows, and jewelry from the time the village was populated. 

After visiting the restored ruins, I headed to the historic downtown area of Globe and grabbed a coffee at one of the quirky little coffee shops in the area.  Globe was named after a globe-shaped silver nugget found in the area in the late 1800s.  The town and its sister towns of Miami, Claypool, and Superior were huge copper mining towns that had a lot of success during the two world wars, but since then the copper economy has faltered and the towns have struggled which is obvious from the main road as you drive through the towns and see all the closed and dilapidated buildings.  However, the historic downtown area seems to be trying to revive itself.  There are several shops and restaurants and the old buildings give it a certain charm.  I could see this converting into a sort of artists town like Bisbee.  I hope it happens (maybe it has, and I just don’t know it). 

I headed northeast on US60 to the Salt River Bridge to meet my daughter.  Wow, the Salt River was roaring!  With the 4 straight days of rain, it was running at 15,000 cubic feet per second!  That is 10 times the average for this time of year.  There were tree sized logs floating (rocketing) down the river.  Of course, I was a bit nervous about my daughter rafting this, until I reminded myself that she’s rafted the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon for 10 years, she’ll be fine.  So, daughter and I had a nice talk and a short walk along the river before parting ways.  I headed back home and got some great shots of the Superstitions filled with clouds.  A nice little Arizona road trip.

Picketpost Mountain from a bridge over Queen Creek in Superior

The normally dry Queen Creek


Superior Murals

Superior Murals

Superior Murals


Apache Leap from downtown Superior



Entry way to Besh-Ba-Gowah archaeological park

Community Building Besh-Ba-Gowah archaeological park

Besh-Ba-Gowah archaeological park


A little barrel cactus fruit color


Salt River looking like the Colorado River


Nice view of Salt River Canyon

Salt River raging

Swift boat rescue practice

Walk along the Salt River

Clouds over the Superstitions on the way home

Sun and clouds over the Superstitions





Educated by Tara Westover:  Even though this came out in the same year as memoirs from Michelle Obama and Sally Field, it won several “best of” awards.  Including Goodreads Choice Award for Memoir, Book of the Year by the American Booksellers Association, Audible's Best Memoir of the Year, and Amazon Editors' #1 pick for the Best Book of 2018.  It certainly was a page turner for me.  The life this woman had to overcome in order to make a new life of her own is almost unbelievable.  And there are some critics that claim it’s a bit too unbelievable.  After watching some of her interviews on her book tour I’m in the “believe her” school. 

Tara was raised in the rural southeast corner of Idaho near Buck’s Peak by a Mormon family whose father was apparently bipolar and held strong religious and anti-government beliefs (the Ruby Ridge incident in Idaho in 1992 had a profound impact on her father’s views of the government).  The children were not allowed to attend any public school nor were they allowed to be vaccinated nor visit doctors or hospitals for any reason.  Any injuries sustained (and there were many in the livelihood the father created for the family) were in the hands of God and any homeopathic help from their mother.  The family made money from their mother's midwifing and homeopathy cures and their father’s scrap metal collection business and side jobs building barns and other large structures.  Most of the money they made went into buying food and fuel in order to prepare for the End Days forecasted several times over the years by their father.   One of Tara’s brothers apparently abused her physically and emotionally throughout much of her childhood and her stories of that abuse are frightening.  But buried in all this madness was a childhood filled with adventures and a sense of personal responsibility that is probably missing more and more in today’s society.  She was free to roam the mountain at a young age and if she ran into problems, she was on her own to figure it out.  Her family was fiercely loyal.  The brother that abused her also saved her life (or at least saved her from critical injury) on more than one occasion.  All of this combined to make it difficult, psychologically, for her to deal with in her later years when she left home. 

With the help of one of her other brothers, she self-studied for the ACT exam and eventually got accepted into BYU.  She struggled initially in college because she hadn’t learned about basic things like the holocaust or the civil rights movement.  But eventually, with the help of a Mormon bishop and a professor, her grades improved, and she eventually was accepted as a Gates Scholar to Cambridge in England (equivalent to an Oxford Rhodes scholar).  If her time at BYU was a "fish out of water" story, then her time in Europe was that and more.  Somehow, she ended up with a Master of Philosophy and a PhD in History from Cambridge, along with a fellowship at Harvard.  This from a girl with no K-12 education (not even home schooling).  The story is incredible.  While at Harvard she tried to confront her parents about her brother’s abuse.  Unfortunately, they didn’t believe her, claiming she was possessed by the devil, and eventually banned her from the family.  She spent years dealing with the psychological trauma of this banishment, but eventually overcame it with counseling help at Harvard.  Today she is still close with about half of her siblings and most of her aunts and uncles, but it seems her relationship with her parents and some other siblings is irreparable.  What a story, and what an incredible young woman.


Squaw Peak (now Piestewa Peak):  I’ve been using this mountain as my “stay in shape” hike for almost 40 years but I’ve yet to write about it…until now.  I still see some old timers that have been hiking it that long (or longer), but they are getting harder to find these days….I wonder why?  The 1.2 miles with 1,200 feet elevation gain make it a nice training hike and I ended many of my working days with a hike here before heading home for the day.  At one time my wife was the unofficial Squaw Peak Queen for her ridiculously fast 19-minute times going up.  I’ve told people training for the Grand Canyon that if you can hike up and down Squaw Peak twice in 2 hours then you will have no problem in the Canyon.  If it takes you 2-4 hours for two trips up and down, then you may still be alright, but you might hurt a bit after crawling out of the Canyon.  If it takes you more than 4 hours for two trips, then you may want to postpone that Canyon hike until you’re in better shape. 

The trail has undergone many changes since I first started hiking it, not the least of which was its name change in 2003.  There was a LOT of controversy over this and there still is today.  The main reason for the name change was the opinion of many Native Americans that the term “squaw” has evolved into a derogatory term over time (as many terms have in the past).  Initially, the pilgrims first heard the name in reference to young Indian women and for much of the early years of the white man in this country it seemed the term was not used or meant in any derogatory way.  However, as settlers began moving west in the 1800s more conflicts emerged for resources and as a deeper rift formed between Native Americans and white settlers, the term began to be used in a more hateful way.  There is at least one tribe that translates it to mean a slanderous term for female genitalia and many people have taken up that cause for a reason to change all place names with that reference.  Anthropologists and linguists have studied this issue over the years and it seems that the general (though not total) consensus now is that since the term is perceived by many to be derogatory, then perhaps it is best to find a different, more appropriate name.

Lori Piestewa was a member of the Hopi tribe and was killed in the Iraq War in 2003.  She is considered to be the first female Native American killed in combat fighting for the U.S.  So, the person picked for the new name seems like a brilliant choice to me.  There was a rule in place (and still is I believe), that a person had to be deceased for at least 5 years before the U.S. Board on Geographic Names would officially change the name of a feature, however the Arizona governor at the time (Janet Napolitano) brute forced the name change in 2003 to the joy of many and the consternation of many others.  Finally, in 2008 (5 years after Piestewa’s death), the U.S. Board on Geographic Names officially changed the name to Piestewa Peak.  Ironically, the street leading up to the trailhead is still named Squaw Peak.  And there are still nearly 1,000 place names in the US containing the name Squaw.

For me, personally, it’s really hard to change my reference of the peak from Squaw to Piestewa, even though I agree with the reason for changing it.  I mean, I still open the cabinet we used to put our glasses in even though we moved them to a different cabinet 13 years ago!  Human habit is slow to change.  So, I apologize to everyone in the world if you hear me using the term Squaw Peak.  I mean no harm, really.  Every now and then I surprise myself and get it right!

Even though the peak is relatively young at 14 million years old, much of the rock you see is 2 billion year-old Precambrian schist coughed up from the bowels of the earth during the San Andreas fault formation.  The hike itself is tough from the very start (tough as schist!).  It is steep the entire 1.2 miles and during the summer there are many rescues on this hill.  I sometimes call it the anthill because it’s so popular and so crowded.  But even with the crowds, the workout is worth the price, and the 360-degree views from on top are unsurpassed in the valley.  I’ve seen many full moon rises and sunsets from here; I’ve been caught in haboobs and lightening storms; I’ve seen rattlesnakes and ringtail cats; I’ve seen people fall and hurt themselves (my wife saw someone collapse and die); and I’ve seen myself age from my 20s into my 60s.  It holds a special place in my heart and no matter the crowds and the heat and the name, I will always love this peak. 

Looking west from the trail


Looking south 


Looking east at Camelback Mountain



Looking north

The parking lot and other minor peaks in the area

New parking area and bridge



How to Live: or A Life of Montaigne by Sarah Bakewell: This book was awarded the 2010 National Book Critics Circle Award for Biography. “This idea - writing about oneself to create a mirror in which other people recognize their own humanity - has not existed forever,” Ms. Bakewell writes. “It had to be invented. And, unlike many cultural inventions, it can be traced to a single person.”  That person is Michel Eyquem de Montaigne.  One could say that he was the world’s first blogger.  He wrote about everyday occurrences in his life and various things he would observe.  The book’s website states that it deals with “How to get along with people, how to deal with violence, how to adjust to losing someone you love—such questions arise in most people’s lives. They are all versions of a bigger question: How do you live?” 

Throughout his 20 years of writing (after retiring from his public service job) he showed how one could grow and change their opinions about issues large and small.  Montaigne was born in 1533 and died in 1592 at 59 years old from complications due to kidney stones from which he suffered all his life (of which I can relate).  His life was very strange.  When he was born, his father sent him to a village to be nursed and then weaned by a peasant family (wet nurses were common then, however normally the wet nurse would come into the child’s home, not the other way around).  His father did this as an experiment so that his son would have an innate sympathy for the peasant’s life since he envisioned a life of politics for Michel.  When Montaigne returned home from the peasant family (after either 1, 2 or 3 years, depending on the source), his father hired a Latin instructor to teach his son the language of the philosophers so that it would be his first language.  Other household members were not allowed to speak to Montaigne in his native French; they had to learn Latin if they wanted to talk to him.  This experiment stopped when he was 6 years old, at which time his father sent him to a private school in Bordeaux where he spent most of his next 10 years.  He later studied law and eventually became part of the legal court system near Bordeaux. 

He worked in the local parliament for 16 years, and then after a horrific horse-riding accident that nearly killed him, he retired and began writing his “Essays”, which would become one of the most famous documents of the 16th century, and which endure to this day.  The writing made him famous and he eventually traveled around Europe speaking about his Essays and gathering even more input about life as he traveled which resulted in a 2nd edition ten years later. 

During this time in France there was civil war between the Catholics and the Protestants.  It was divisive and bloody and included the notorious St. Bartholomew’s Day Massacre which contained some of the most brutal tortures, rapes, and murders, all in the name of religion (Google it).  Montaigne became a voice of moderation during this time and even though he was raised a Catholic, he had many Protestant friends and colleagues.  His negotiating skill brought him to the King’s court to help with various negotiations in order to bring peace to the country. 

His “Essays” ended up on the Catholic list of banned books mainly due to his lack of reliance on God to resolve human issues.  This, of course made the book even more famous, especially in Protestant England where one William Shakespeare obtained a copy.  There is strong evidence of Montaigne’s influence in many of Shakespeare’s plays.  
So, how to live?  What is the secret according to Montaigne?  Bakewell included 20 chapters in her biography, each with one basic answer to that question, based on Montaigne’s writing; and I have to say that I agree with nearly everything he believes about how to live.  

Here is a list of some those chapters:

  •         Don’t worry about death
  •         Pay attention
  •         Read a lot, forget most of what you read
  •         Survive love and loss
  •         Question everything
  •         Keep a private room behind the shop (a place for only your thoughts)
  •         Wake from the sleep of habit
  •         Guard your humanity (tough in times of religious civil wars)
  •         See the world
  •         Reflect on everything; regret nothing
  •         Give up control
  •         Be ordinary and imperfect
  •         Let life be its own answer, not the end

As the author stated near the end of the book: “The 21st century could use a Montaignean sense of life and politics – It could use his sense of moderation, his love of sociability and courtesy, his suspension of judgement, and his subtle understanding of the psychological mechanisms involved in confrontation and conflict.” 


Elephant Mountain near Cave Creek: I’ve hiked most of the trails at the beautiful Spur Cross Ranch Conservation area just north of Cave Creek, but I had yet to tackle Elephant Mountain which is rated the most difficult.  It was steep and slippery in some parts, but overall, it wasn’t that tough, but I think they rate it as difficult to discourage the many casual hikers out here.  Spur Cross was saved from land developers in the late 90s by a consortium of the town of Cave Creek, Maricopa County, and Arizona State Parks.  In 2001, then Governor Jane Hull signed papers protecting this area for public use.  It’s now 70% owned by Maricopa County and 30% by the town of Cave Creek.  Because of the creek and a nearby spring, this area has been populated by ancient peoples for centuries, then eventually by pioneers, ranchers, and miners in the 1800s.  There are 90 known archaeological sites, along with remnants of a dude ranch and a couple of mines.  The Sonoran Desert is beautiful here, with some of the largest saguaros I’ve seen, and mountains rising to 4,000 feet.

 Boy what a day I had!  The highlight was seeing my first ever Gila monster in the wild.  These prehistoric looking reptiles are rare to see, so when I first saw it, I thought snake, no chuckwalla, no what the heck is that!  It was lumbering up the trail right at me, then it saw me, stopped and took a right turn up into the brush.  But not before I got some nice video.  Well I had a smile on my face the rest of the way home.  What a treat.  Even without this encounter it would have a been a great hike!  The wildflowers were in bloom, I explored an ancient ruin, and I saw very fresh mountain lion scat, complete with hair and bones embedded.  I was all alone on this trail, so that got the heart pumping a bit.  Oh, and Cave Creek was flowing with water at the start of the hike.  The rangers had placed a mini walking bridge to help hikers avoid getting our feet wet.  The ranger who collected my $3 fee said that the place was crazy busy the previous Saturday.  There’s very little for folks to do in these times and, so far, hiking is still an option and people are taking advantage.  I know that, for me, the sun and the outdoors help to feed the body and soul in a time when that is most needed. 


Elephant Mountain with brittlebush flowers blooming

Untroubled Bridge over Cave Creek

Desert wildflowers!

Saguaro, sky, flowers, grass with Black Mountain background

Believe it or not, we're not in Kansas

Healthy desert

Mexican gold poppies

Purple lupine

Old fashioned trail marker

Walled ancient ruin with town of Cave Creek below

View west from the walled ruin



I have no idea what these are, but they are cool looking

Lush desert, oxymoron

Globemallow and dead cactus

Close quarters for these two

Beautiful walk

Elephant Mountain from the Kansas wheat fields?

Gila monster!!!!

Heading into the brush away from me

Not sure what flower this is, but it was purty





The Poisonwood Bible by Barbara Kingsolver:  Barbara Kingsolver has written 8 novels in her 30-year writing career thus far.  This is her best-known novel.  It was a finalist in 1999 for the Pulitzer and PEN/Faulkner awards.  On a local note, she went to graduate school at the University of Arizona in Tucson where she received master’s degrees in Ecology and Evolutionary Biology.  She lived in Tucson for 20 years and began her writing career as a science writer for the university.  It’s been a great month of reading for me, ending with this incredible novel about a missionary family in the Belgian Congo starting in 1959.  The novel is narrated by the mother, Orleanna, and her 4 daughters (Rachel, Leah, Adah, and Ruth May).  Orleanna’s narrative is written as a memoir, looking back on her life from her retiring days on Sanderling Island, Georgia.  The daughters’ narratives tell the harrowing family story from 1959 through the 1990s.  It’s a fascinating way to write (and read) a novel because you have 5 different voices and perspectives on their very interesting lives.  Kingsolver was somehow able to write a great novel as though it was written by 5 different authors and you come to know each character by their distinctive writing.  The bulk of the book describes their “fish out of water” lives in the small village of Kilanga in 1959 through 1961 as their preacher father tried in vain to convert the people to Christianity.  And the last few sections tell the story of how the mother and daughters each went on to very different and separate lives based on their own experiences during those 2 missionary years.  Kingsolver mixed actual Congolese history with the fictional account of this missionary family.  So, I learned a lot about the Belgian and American exploitation of this country and its people for their natural resources.  It’s not a good story for America and an even worse story for Belgium (they offered their first apology in the Spring of 2019 for their role in several atrocities that took place as the country sought independence from Belgium).  

The story is epic and adventurous and tragic and funny, and you will have a hard time putting it down.  Here are some of the voices of the narrators (I wrote 5 pages of notes, there are so many great lines):

Rachel: 
“Here comes Moses down Mount Syanide (sic) with ten fresh ways to wreck your life”

“I thought I had died and gone to hell, but it’s worse, I’m alive in hell.”

“In Congo there’s only two ages of people:  babies that have to be carried and people that stand up and fend for themselves.”

Adah: 
“Miss Betty sent me to the corner for the rest of the hour to pray for my own soul while kneeling on uncooked grains of rice.  When I finally got up with sharp grains embedded in my knees, I found, to my surprise, that I no longer believed in God.”

“What I carried out of the Congo on my crooked little back is a ferocious uncertainty about the worth of a life.  And now I am becoming a doctor.  How sensible of me.”

Leah: 

“You know things are bad when a woman without any legs and who recently lost two of her own kids feels sorry for you.”

 “To the Congolese it seemed odd that if one man gets 50 votes and the other gets 49, the first one wins altogether, and the second one plumb loses.  That means almost half the people will be unhappy and in a village that’s left unhappy you haven’t heard the end of it.  There is sure to be trouble somewhere down the line.”

“Preventatives for old age are rampant here.”

“Kinshasa: a vast congregation of hunger, infectious disease, and desperation, masquerading as opportunity.”

Orleanna: 

“The substance of grief is not imaginary.  It’s as real as rope or the absence of air, and like both of those things it can kill.”

“Conquest and liberation and democracy and divorce are words that mean squat, basically, when you have hungry children and clothes to get out on the line and it looks like rain.”

“I knew that Rome was burning, but I had just enough water to scrub the floor, so I did what I could.”

Wow!

Until next month, happy reading and rambling!  And for those who've read till the end, here's your reward; a poem I find truer each day that I live:


When I can look Life in the eyes
Grown calm and very coldly wise
Life will have given me the Truth
And taken in exchange -- my youth.
- -Sara Teasdale, poet (8 Aug 1884-1933)