July 2020

Books read:
  •          Life After Life by Kate Atkinson
  •          A Room with a View by E.M. Forster
  •          Billy Lynn’s Long Halftime Walk by Ben Fountain
  •      Dept. of Speculation by Jenny Offill


Trails walked:
  •        Glacier Gorge trail in Rocky Mountain National Park near Estes Park, CO (July 7th)
  •         Devil’s Thumb trail near Nederland, CO (July 9th)
  •         Mitchell Lake trail near Ward, CO (July 9th)
  •         Abineau/Bear Jaw loop near Flagstaff (July 16th)
  •      Arizona Trail Passage 34c near Flagstaff (July 29th)

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Song of the month:  


July in Phoenix begins the 10 weeks or so of just miserable weather in the desert.  No respite from the heat unless you get caught in a monsoon rain, which then turns the valley into a sauna that nobody wants to sit in.  Luckily, on July 1st we found ourselves driving to cool Colorado to visit our grandson, our first visit to see him since the covid lockdown began.  We had to rent a minivan to cart my wife, her mom, our dog, our daughter’s dog, and myself the 1,000 miles between Phoenix and Denver.  We stayed in Colorado for a couple of weeks and then stopped by in Flagstaff for a week to visit with our daughter who was coming off a Grand Canyon river trip.  Visiting our grandson was joyful, and it was a healing two weeks for my mother-in-law who had recently lost her husband of 65 years.  We mainly played with him and fed him and put him to sleep the entire time, but I was able to get out a few times for beautiful walks with my son and daughter-in-law. 

While in Flagstaff I drove my mother-in-law to the Grand Canyon for an afternoon.  She couldn’t remember if she’d ever been there and just stared in wonder at the beauty of the place as we gazed into the abyss while enjoying the California condors gliding down below us.  I’ve been to the canyon many times, but this is the least crowded I’ve ever seen the place.  Middle of the summer and parking was available anywhere you wanted.  Hardly anybody wandering around the rim near the hotels.  AND, AND, there was absolutely no wait for a Grand Canyon Crunch ice cream at the Soda Fountain where there would normally be a line wrapped around the building.  So, this was certainly a bright spot in these Corona-days (daze).  I also managed a couple of walks around the San Francisco peaks while in Flagstaff with my daughter along with her wonder dog and boyfriend. 

Traveling by car in these times was a bit dystopian, especially when driving through the Navajo reservation in NE Arizona.  The reservation has been hit hard with covid and that has decimated their already strained economy.  Nearly all businesses were closed in Tuba City except for gas stations; and public restrooms were nowhere to be found...so plan accordingly and hold off on that 32 ounce coffee.  Kayenta seemed in slightly better shape.  But even beyond the serious problems on the reservation, rest areas were filled with travelers eyeing one another with trepidation and some fear as we tried to avoid touching anything or getting close to anyone.  The good news is that nearly everyone was wearing masks.  Colorado's rest areas were more numerous and better equipped than any we saw in Arizona or Utah which means there were fewer people at each of them.  I realize that by driving, we were adding to this problem, but some things (like seeing your grandson before he starts crawling and talking and going to school and graduating...) are important enough to justify risky behavior....in my opinion....ok it's just an excuse...I'm human...we're flawed...we make hypocritical decisions in the name of nothing.  So there. 

This month I read some great fiction, including a novel about multiple chances to live one's life, a critique of English society in the early 20th century, a social commentary on America and war, and a brilliant portrayal of marriage and family in good times and bad.  I also managed 3 nice walks in beautiful Colorado and 2 more hikes in the San Francisco Peaks near Flagstaff.  


Song of the month – Thunder Road by Bruce Springsteen:  My wife and I were talking about how emotionally down we were recently for so many reasons and like so many people are today.  It is just so depressing with the virus, the economy, the vitriol of our new American politics.  We felt that our road trip to Colorado and Flagstaff this month was like an escape from our everyday lives, and as soon as we got home we started planning our next escape.  Bruce Springsteen is the master of writing about the everyday American and their dreams of escape.  The entire classic Born to Run album was about that. And even his very latest songs capture this feeling.  I was hard pressed to find one specific song from Springsteen that would evoke the feelings of many Americans (and Earthlings) in these times.  So many would be appropriate:  Land of Hope and Dreams, Promised Land, This American Land, Badlands, Rocky Ground, The River, Darkness on the Edge of Town….But Thunder Road is what I finally ended up with.  First of all, it’s one of the finest songs ever written (at least according to the Springsteen groupie that I married). Then there are the many different versions of it from rock and roll to slow acoustic, all of them great.  And the lyrics, oh my god, the lyrics (a few of them below). Then there’s what Bruce himself said about it: “The songs were written immediately after the Vietnam War, and you forget­ everybody felt like that then,” Springsteen says. “There’s quite a sense of dread and uncertainty about the future and who you were, where you were going, where the whole country was going, so that found its way into the record.”  He could have said those same words today.   I found a version of it sung by him and Melissa Ethridge, who is basically the female Bruce.  It’s a fine rendition.  Enjoy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQpyxh3xpv8

Selected lyrics from Thunder Road:

The screen door slams/Mary's dress waves

Like a vision she dances across the porch/As the radio plays

 So you're scared and you're thinking/That maybe we ain't that young anymore 

Show a little faith there's magic in the night/You ain't a beauty but hey you're alright

Oh and that's alright with me

 Hey what else can we do now/Except roll down the window/And let the wind blow back your hair? 

They scream your name at night in the street/Your graduation gown lies in rags at their feet 

So Mary climb in/It's a town full of losers/I'm pulling out of here to win


 


Glacier Gorge in Rocky Mountain National Park near Estes Park, CO:  Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) is one of the more beautiful National Parks in the country.  I remember driving the spectacular Trail Ridge road in 1978 while I was working a college job in Boulder.  For this trip we didn’t drive that road but hiked to Glacier Gorge in the east-central part of the park near the end of Bear Lake road.  I was happy to have my son and daughter-in-law along for the day.  We were lucky to find someone leaving the trailhead parking lot when we arrived; this is one disadvantage of a place so beautiful….it’s also very popular (a good option to avoid parking issues would be to take the park shuttle which stops at all the main trailheads).  The trail steadily climbs past raging creeks, waterfalls and wildflowers.  At 0.8 miles is Alberta Falls where most of the tourists stop.  We hiked another 2 miles to Mills Lake which was named after Enos Mills, the man commonly referred to as the "father of Rocky Mountain National Park".  He lobbied congress and wrote thousands of letters that eventually led to its National Park status in 1915.  We tried our hand at fishing the lake and caught a few brook, rainbow, and brown trout.  They were all very small and we released them.  The setting for this lake is gorgeous.  13,000 plus foot peaks surrounding the lake.  If I come back to this area, I would skip the fishing and continue on the trail up to Jewel and Black Lakes for more scenery and a better chance to spot some wildlife.  A beautiful day in a beautiful National Park. 


Alberta Falls on the way to Mills Lake

Dad and Son

Daughter in law in her cool new shades

Just like the Coors commercial 

Mills Lake; not your run of the mill lake...

Trail art

Son fishing


Life After Life by Kate Atkinson:  I really enjoyed reading this creative novel, written in 2013 by Kate Atkinson.  It’s long, at over 500 pages, but it was so clever and entertaining that it seemed too short in the end.  The book was shortlisted for many awards and was on the New York Times list of top 10 books of 2013.  Some might compare it to the movie Groundhog Day with Bill Murray, but I think it’s more like the entertaining Netflix show Russian Doll (check it out if you’ve not seen it). 
The book is set (and reset) between 1910 (when the main character, Ursula Todd, was born) and 1967.  The author brilliantly portrays the impact of World War I, the Spanish Flu, the horrors of World War II, and how life in England evolved from the early 1900s Imperial Britain, to mid-century England, barely trying to stay economically feasible. 
Like Russian Doll, the main character dies over and over in many different ways (at least 17 from my count), coming back in a new life with a sort of “déjà vu” or half memory of what occurred in her previous life. In this way, she slowly learns how to improve herself and to possibly improve the world around her with this ethereal knowledge of past times.  You get a glimmer of this early on when in the first or second chapter, a 20-year-old Ursula assassinates Adolf Hitler in 1930. 
In one life, Ursula works in London during the 1940s helping to rescue people whose homes were bombed by the Germans (the bombing and rescue scenes were so realistic that you felt right in the middle of the blitz).  In another life, she leaves England to marry a German and ends up living in Munich during the war where she meets a young shop girl by the name of Eva Braun. 
The entire Todd family is full of great stories of love, tragedy, and everyday life.  Her aunt Izzie acts as sort of a transition character between old fashioned stuffy England and modern England as she was too far ahead of her time to be accepted in old fashioned England, but was indispensable to Ursula in helping her to become the best person she could be.  One quote I liked about Izzie: “Izzie was now to be packed off to a finishing school in Switzerland, even though it seemed she was already finished, in more ways than one.”
Other lines I enjoyed:

Childbirth was a brutal affair.  If she had been in charge of designing the human race, she would have gone about things quite differently.

“Hindsight’s a wonderful thing,” Klara said. “If we all had it there would be no history to write about.”

“Yes, that’s it.  I was looking for transcendence.”  “I imagine it finds you, rather than the other way round.”


Devil’s Thumb trail near Nederland, CO:  Another fun day with my son and daughter-in-law  (along with our daughter’s wonder dog). We first headed toward the Brainard Lake recreation area to hike to Mitchell Lake, but there was a looonnnng line of cars to get in (on a Thursday!), so we headed down the 72 highway to Nederland to hike Devil’s Thumb trail and then possibly head back later in the day to hike Mitchell Lake.  Devil’s Thumb is also very popular, and we had to park in one of the few parallel parking spots remaining about a half mile from the trailhead.  The trail is rocky and steadily uphill, but the scenery is beautiful with meadows, wildflowers, creeks and waterfalls.  We wanted to hike to Lost Lake, but we couldn’t find it……not really; it was closed due to bear activity.  If I come back to this area, I would try to make it to Woodland Lake which sounds amazing according to a backpacker we talked to who had spent 4 days up there fishing.  We only hiked around 4 total miles here and could have made it to either Jacob Lake or Woodland Lake but decided to see if the line at Brainard Lakes had died down, so we headed back up the 72 towards Ward….

Middle Boulder Creek

Site of an old abandoned mining town

Wonder Dog enjoying the flowers

Lots of trail options here

Another Coors commercial

Waterfalls here and there


Wildflowers and clouds

Four-wheeler saving a couple miles of walking - because he can


Mitchell Lake trail near Ward, CO:  There were plenty of parking spots now that it was 4pm.  We grabbed our fishing gear and walked the mile to Mitchell Lake.  It’s a beautiful sub-alpine lake.  We didn’t have as much luck fishing here but were rewarded with the sight of a big bull moose around 15 yards from us on the hike out.  We took some photos and just stared at this magnificent animal for a while.  I took advantage of the terrible fishing to hike another mile or so up the trail towards Blue Lake which I hiked with my daughter last summer (see my August 2019 post); I didn’t make it all the way due to time constraints but it’s a great hike.  Another fantastic day in the Rocky Mountains.  But one thing I’ve learned about this area compared to Arizona is that many many more people venture into the outdoors which creates full parking lots at popular trailheads even on weekdays (I imagine weekends are a zoo).  If you want to get away from it all on weekdays, then you’ll either need to drive much further or get a jeep and find a long bumpy dirt road. 



Wonder Dog playing in the snow

Mitchell Creek?

Fishing Mitchell Lake

Big Bull Moose right off the trail


A Room with a View by EM Forster:  I reviewed Forster’s great novel A Passage to India in my October 2019 blog so wanted to read another of his.  A Room with a View was adapted into a 1985 Merchant Ivory movie that was highly regarded and received an Academy Award nomination for best picture.  Modern Library had this book on their top 100 English language books of the 20th century (that list also included Forster’s A Passage to India and Howard’s End). 
Written in 1908 the novel explores the class rigidity of Edwardian English society compared to what modern society was becoming.  At the time, in England, if someone were considered to be of a lower-class distinction, then it was scandalous to be seen associating with them.  However, several artists and intellectuals of the day (including Forster) where trying to change this.  The main character, Lucy Honeychurch, was caught between these factions as a young woman traveling in Italy with her older aunt/chaperone.  The title of the book comes from a scene near the beginning where Lucy and her aunt were complaining that their room at their Florence pension had no view of the River Arno.  A father and son (the Emersons) overheard their complaints and offered their rooms to swap. The Emersons were of a lower class in society (yet somehow managed the rooms with a view…) and it would be improper to be under an “unseemly obligation” to accept.  However, a parish priest who was visiting from England vouched for the Emersons and the rooms were swapped.  Scandal erupts between the younger Emerson and Lucy (tame for our modern times, but a big deal back then) which provokes the aunt to cart Lucy off to Rome and then back to England to avoid further scandal. 
The second part of the novel is set back in England where Lucy is engaged to be married to an “acceptable” man of class, but she then encounters the Emersons again.  Lots of entertaining family drama ensues.  You can see Forster’s writing improve between this novel, written in 1908, and A Passage to India, written in 1924.  I looked forward each day to reading the latter novel, and although A Room with a View was pretty good, it wasn’t nearly as satisfying to read. 




Abineau/Bear Jaw loop near Flagstaff:  After our Colorado trip we transitioned back to Arizona by stopping in Flagstaff to avoid facing triple digit temperatures for another week.  Also, our daughter was coming off a Grand Canyon river trip and we got to spend a whole week with her and her new boyfriend.  I hiked with them and their dogs along the northern slope of the San Francisco peaks on a beautiful Thursday morning.  We saw very few hikers on this trail.  The Abineau trail starts out with a moderate climb and then gets really steep for the last mile.  I was huffing and puffing trying to keep up with the youngsters and their dogs.  We ran into a couple of hikers that were summiting Humphrey’s peak from the back side.  I hadn’t realized there was an approach from here and will have to explore that possibility for a possible later hike.  After three miles of climbing we reached the Waterline road with great views north, including the Grand Canyon way off in the distance.  Then it was down the Waterline road for a couple of miles to the Bear Jaw trail and down three more miles back to the car.  This would be a beautiful fall hike with all the aspens.   We saw LOTS of downed trees on this hike indicating strong winds in the winter and spring.  Nearly 2,000 feet of elevation gain makes this a good workout hike.

Into the aspens

Nearing the Peaks

Great views toward Grand Canyon

Daughter and boyfriend

Right is the Inner Basin, left is Bear Jaw and our car

Heading down Bear Jaw


Billy Lynn’s Long Halftime Walk by Ben Fountain: I have read over and over again that this was a great book.  First from Nick Hornby in his great Ten Years in the Tub.  His comment was that he had just read a modern classic and nobody even knew about it.  Well, that was an exaggeration, because it received highly positive reviews from critics and won several awards, including the National Book Critics Circle Award for Fiction and the Flaherty-Dunnan First Novel Prize. It was also a finalist for the 2012 National Book Award.  But I kept thinking about the movie which I didn’t see but I remember had terrible reviews.  Now I know why.  It would be impossible to make this book into a movie; 90% of the dialogue is in the main character’s head, so how do you put that on video?  Well I guess Ang Lee tried but failed spectacularly.   But I loved this book and the brilliant way the author writes.  It’s a satire on war and the way many Americans glorify it while they are far from the danger, watching football games in expensive stadiums.  It’s told from the perspective of 19-year-old Billy Lynn who is on a two-week publicity tour of the states after his Bravo company won a key firefight in the Iraq war that happened to be televised by news cameramen.   Most of the story takes place on Thanksgiving Day where he and his fellow soldiers are guests of the Dallas Cowboys during a game where they are to participate in the halftime show (along with Beyonce and Destiny’s Child).  You can’t get more Americana than a Thanksgiving Day football game at the Dallas Cowboy’s stadium.  Some have compared this book to Joseph Heller’s Catch-22 and it’s a decent comparison, but I think this book has more soul and more social commentary relevant to today’s world. 

Billy is from a small town 90 minutes outside of Dallas, so he is even more celebrated than the others since he’s a Texan (like Audie Murphy!).  But he’s from a poor family, like 99% of troops we send into battle these days and he doesn’t feel at home being wined and dined by rich NFL executives.  He and his fellow soldiers have this unbreakable bond that is fascinating to watch as they go through the motions of all the “hail-America’s-heroes” schtick going on all around them.   

There are other interesting story lines going on in parallel that are equally fascinating; one about a Hollywood producer trying to get a movie of their firefight produced, one about a Dallas cheerleader that Billy forms a connection with, and one about Billy’s past  drama with his family and how he ended up in Iraq in the first place.  Billy is an old soul with a philosopher’s set of questions, but without the education or knowledge to fully understand the questions, let along their answers. 

I enjoyed everything about this book.  Give it a read, it won’t disappoint.  Here are some great lines from the book:

Somewhere along the way America became a giant mall with a country attached.

Intense women, these two, competitive, willful, dressed all in black, their faces set with the  pinched look of angry vegans.

About Billy’s troop: Okay, so maybe they aren’t the greatest generation by anyone’s standard, but they are surely the best of the bottom third percentile of their own somewhat muddled and suspect generation.

About Dallas society ladies: It’s a major tragedy in their lives if their Asian manicurist takes the day off.

About the Dallas Cowboy fans: …well-fed Anglo is the dominant demographic.


Arizona Trail Passage 34c near Flagstaff:  There are several Arizona Trail passages surrounding Flagstaff; 124 miles of them if you count passages 30-35 which can all be accessed within 20 miles of town.  For those unfamiliar with the AZ Trail, it's an 800 mile trail that dissects Arizona from Utah in the north to Mexico in the south and winds its way through some of the state's greatest natural wonders including the Grand Canyon and the Superstition Wilderness.  I had recently read an article in the Flagstaff newspaper that claimed passage 34c was the best stretch of the trail near town.  And after my day on this trail it's hard to argue.  I started at Aspen Corner which is very near the Snowbowl Ski area (On this record heat setting day I wanted to be up as high as possible as even Flagstaff was near 90 degrees).  The Arizona trail can be accessed around a quarter mile north of the Aspen Corner parking area, down an old jeep road that has been closed to motor vehicles.  Aspen Corner during the fall is giant traffic jam with leaf peepers (like me) looking for the aspen trees changing color.  On this day there were just a few cars of folks looking to escape the heat.  I would say that the best part of this 7 mile stretch is its diversity.  You wind your way in and out of aspen groves, ponderosa forest (some very old and some new), and giant meadows and prairies with spectacular views of the San Francisco Peaks and of the beautiful valley to the north and west.  And to top it all off I was able to spot a bear around 50 yards off the trail.  I was looking for something big because there were dozens of ravens squawking away as I approached, so I figured there must be a very big dead animal nearby (either that or a kindergarten class eating and spilling skittles everywhere).  And normally where there is a dead animal nearby, there is also a big live animal nearby.  It was one of the largest black bears I've seen so it's been eating real good this summer.  I didn't get a great shot with my 6 year old crummy camera and decided it would be a bad idea to try to get closer.  So I watched him/her for a bit and then carried on.  This is a very popular mountain biking trail evidently as I encountered 10 bikers, one trail runner, and no other hikers.  After over 11 miles of hiking (I didn't complete the full seven mile section) at 9,000 feet I was pretty tired, but it was a good tired as I headed back into the shimmering desert heat of the valley.  


Great views through the aspens

Curving trail and hills

Nice views of the Peaks

...and of the valley to the north and west

Which dandelion seed shot is better, this one? or...

...this one?

entering another aspen grove

Lots of mountain wildflowers blooming

Wildflowers, ferns, aspens

Fern gully....

I took a detour to Bismark "Lake" - There is no lake, just an indent 

Purple mountains, waves of grain???

This monster's legs are all that's left

Utah is much closer than Mexico from here....

That dark blob is a bear...I wasn't getting any closer...

Beautiful valley below




Dept. of Speculation by Jenny Offill:   Dept. of Speculation, was published in January 2014 and was named one of the 10 Best Books of 2014 by the New York Times Book Review. It was shortlisted for the Folio Prize in the UK, the Pen/Faulkner Award and the L.A. Times Fiction Award.  I didn’t abbreviate the title (Dept.), that’s the way it is written; I suppose as a reflection of the abbreviated way in which this story is told.  I’ve never read a book like this before and I found it to be a creative way to write a novel and a mind-bending way to read one.  It’s the story of love, marriage, parenthood, and family which starts out happily, but then, like many, deteriorate for so many reasons.  The story is told, not in the normal way, with a plot and characters and dialogue and flashbacks.  Instead it’s told in a series of seemingly disparate sentences, paragraphs, and famous (and not so famous) quotes.  At first you wonder what the heck is going on, but the writing, and the quotes are so memorable that you keep reading anyway.  And before you know it, all these various sections of prose end up telling a story; a very heartbreaking and familiar one.  A New York Times review stated, “Speculation moves quickly, but it is also joyously demanding because you will want to keep trying to understand the why of each fragment and how it fits with the others.” Afterwards I read that the author wrote her thoughts on index cards and eventually organized the cards in such a way that they would tell a story.  There are no names in this story; there is the wife, the husband, the child, the philosopher friend, the ex-boyfriend, the girl, etc.  And interestingly, the wife (from whose point of view the story is told) refers to herself in the first person during the beginning (when she’s happy) and the end of the book (when she finally understands and is reconciling), but refers to herself in the third person during the middle sections when her life was hardest and most confusing and she was most disconnected with herself.

The descriptions of motherhood are profound, as stated by the same NYT reviewer:  “Dept. of Speculation is especially engaging when it describes new motherhood — the stunned joy and loneliness and fatigue of it, the new orientation of the narrator’s world around an impossibly small but demanding creature.”

Here are some of the MANY great lines and quotes:

That night on TV, I saw the tattoo I wished my life had warranted: “If you have not known suffering, love me.”  A Russian murderer beat me to it.

Our ears evolved to be our warning systems.  We are on high alert in places where no birds sing.  To live in a city is to be forever flinching.

The Buddhists say there are 121 states of consciousness.  Of these, only three involve misery or suffering.  Most of us spend our time moving back and forth between these three.

I never liked to hear the doorbell ring.  None of the people I liked turned up that way.

Three questions from my daughter:
Why is there salt in the sea?
Will you die before me?
How many dogs did George Washington have?

Don’t know
Yes, please
36

There are 60 seconds in a minute, 60 minutes in an hour, 24 hours in a day, 7 days in a week, 52 weeks in a year, and X years in a life.  Solve for X.

Some women make it look so easy, the way they cast ambition off like an expensive coat that no longer fits.

Sometimes she just stands and looks out the window where the people whose lives are intact enough not to have to take yoga live.

The husband doesn’t volunteer this.  Like every detail it is eked out of him in the Little Theater of Hurt Feelings.

She has wanted to sleep with other people, of course.  One or two in particular.  But the truth is she has good impulse control.  That is why she isn’t dead.  Also why she became a writer instead of a heroin addict.  She thinks before she acts.  Or more properly, she thinks instead of acts.  A character flaw, not a virtue. 


Until next month, happy reading and rambling!