February 2024
Books read:
- Saint Maybe by Anne Tyler
- Never Broken: Songs Are Only Half the Story by Jewel
- The Double Helix: A Personal Account of the Discovery of the Structure of DNA by James D. Watson
- Dawn in Siberia by John Clary Davies
- One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest by Ken Kesey
- The Word for World is Forest by Ursula K. Le Guin
Trails walked:
- Petaca Point Trail near Taos (Feb 9th)
- Rift Valley short loop near Taos (Feb 10th)
- Williams Lake snowshoe near Taos (Feb 13th)
- Cub Lake loop in Rocky Mountain National Park (Feb 21st)
- Brainard Lake snowshoe near Ward (Feb 29th)
Song(s) of the month: Jewel
- Hands
- I Am My Father's Daughter
- No More Tears
- Stay Here Forever
- Standing Still
- Somewhere Over the Rainbow
- Ave Maria
Scientist Spotlight – Carolyn Parker, Dayton Project physicist

February Summary:
We spent the first three weeks of this short month in Taos, hanging out with our new granddaughter and doing whatever we could to help her parents get a few moments of sleep here and there. The baby had to stay in the hospital for 5 days after birth in order to address a few issues so during that time we were bringing in food and sneaking in some celebratory drinks, because what better thing to celebrate than creating a new life! Bringing home that first baby is the most joyful and the most difficult thing you can imagine. Looking back to 1986 I'm still not sure how we did it. At the time we had no relatives living in Phoenix even though we had a pretty good support network of friends with babies. We both had demanding jobs that didn't provide much maternity leave and zero paternity leave. We both still remember that first drive home from the hospital, driving like we were seniors headed home from the grocery store with an uncovered bowl of soup. Somehow that little baby girl who was brought up by two parents who had no idea what they were doing managed to survive and thrive and was now bringing home her own special cargo. Circle of life. It was a great three weeks and was very difficult to leave. But our plan is to spend a few days there each month so that we can help where we can and also hang out with everyone out there. They have built a nice community of friends, plus the baby's other set of grandparents live there.
Because we were in Taos so long, three of this month's hikes were near there. I also added a loop in Rocky Mountain National Park and a snowshoe in the Brainard Lake Recreation Area. Taos even influenced my reading as two of this month's books were borrowed from the library of the friends we're renting a home from. My reading started with another great character novel from Anne Tyler, a surprisingly great memoir by Jewel, an account on the discovery of the double helix, a skiing trip to Siberia in winter, and a 1962 novel that was adapted into an Academy Award winning movie in 1975. Enjoy.
Scientist Spotlight: Carolyn Parker, Dayton Project physicist
With the confluence of Black History Month and the film Oppenheimer cleaning up at all the awards shows I thought I would profile one of a handful of African American scientists who contributed to the Manhattan Project, overcoming all the prejudice of the day. In Ms. Parker's case the double prejudice of being a Black woman scientist in the early part of the 20th century. Born in 1917, Parker was the first African American woman to earn a post graduate degree in physics. After teaching math and physics in college she was slated to help with research for the Dayton Project in Ohio. The Dayton Project, led by Monsanto (of course), was put in place as part of the Manhattan Project to study the use of polonium as an initiator of the chain reaction for the plutonium atomic weapon. Parker worked on the project from 1943-1947. By 1952 she had completed all the necessary work for her doctorate in physics from MIT but unfortunately passed away from leukemia, likely due to the polonium exposure on the Dayton Project.
In 2020, during the Black Lives Matter protests, an elementary school and neighboring park in Parker's hometown of Gainesville, Florida was renamed to Carolyn Beatrice Parker Elementary School and Park in her honor. It was previously named for a confederate general.
Song(s) of the month: Jewel
Rather than my normal artist description I’ll refer you to this month’s review of Jewel’s terrific autobiography, Never Broken, below. And after reading the book I naturally decided to highlight some of her songs that I enjoy.
Hands – This is probably the first song of hers that I listened to and it’s still on my playlist rotation. She wrote this when she was 16 and homeless. Jewel told Billboard Magazine in 1998 that, "I knew if I could tell the world, my hands are so little, how can they have impact on the world? They seem like tiny little weapons. I can't fight with despair, thoughtlessness. They're not the solution, but they are the first step forward."
Sample lyrics:
If I could tell the world just one thing
It would be that we're all okay
Not to worry 'cause worry is wasteful
And useless in times like these
…In the end, only kindness matters
I Am My Father's Daughter with Dolly Parton – Jewel’s father suffered from PTSD, not only from his stint in Vietnam, but also from his cruel upbringing. It took many years, but Jewel finally forgave him for the abuses she suffered from him directly and indirectly. This song is a sort of reflection of that forgiveness and includes home video of her growing up in the Alaskan wilderness; plus you can’t go wrong singing with Dolly.
Sample lyrics:
I am my father's daughter
He has his mother's eyes
I am the product of her sacrifice
I am the accumulation of the dreams of generations
And their stories live in me like holy water
No More Tears – Jewel has been involved in solving the homeless crisis ever since she was able to pull herself out of that condition. This song addresses the issue. It showcases her incredible and soulful voice.
Sample lyrics:
Heartbreak is like the weather, ravaging my soul
But I know, it moves on
And storms are followed by the most beautiful blue skies
I will keep carrying on
Stay Here Forever – I love this breezy song from her “country” album titled Sweet and Wild. Nothing deep, just a song about enjoying the one you love on a nice day. It was the opening song for Gary Marshall’s movie Valentine’s Day.
Standing Still – Written during a 3-year hiatus from the music business, Jewel said of this song, “It’s about the irony of how much a person travels in my job, and how it can really cause your emotional life to stand still,” she said. “Fame really tolerates a prolonged adolescence, and your fame and career can outgrow your ability to handle it. You can get really spoiled, and I wanted to get away from [that] and make sure I wasn’t standing still.”
Somewhere Over the Rainbow – My wife and I saw her live a few years ago and what I couldn’t get over was her voice. It was perfect. And she performed the best version of this song I had ever heard.
Ave Maria - If you need anymore proof as to how great her voice is, check out this powerful version of Ave Maria from her really good Christmas album.
Saint Maybe by Anne Tyler - Sitting down with an Anne Tyler book is like being a fly on the wall while you watch in fascination at how a normal everyday family copes with its daily joys and tragedies. I'm pretty sure I've said this before but if you think your family has had a boring life, ask Anne Tyler to write about it and you will be reminded of the daily struggles and wonders that a family life contains. I've previously read four of her novels (The Accidental Tourist, Breathing Lessons, The Amateur Marriage, and Dinner at the Homesick Restaurant) and have loved them all. So, I was sure I was in safe hands.
Saint Maybe tells the story of Ian and his family. When the story begins, Ian is 17 years old as he confronts his older brother about his wife's possible infidelity. Tragic events unfold after this reveal, and Ian is left to deal with the collateral damage. His plans to go to college get interrupted when he drops into a random church (called the Church of the Second Chance) where he gets hard-to-hear advice from the preacher which changes the course of his life. Ian quits school and sets about to help his aging parents raise the three children left behind after all the tragic events. What enfolds is a story of grace, forgiveness, and redemption as Ian watches the children grow up and his parents grow older. Each character in the book plays their part in this family drama that kept me mesmerized and never wanting to stop reading. Somehow Tyler manages to produce satisfying endings to stories that seem to have no end in sight.
A 1991 New York Times review had this to say about the novel: "Each character in "Saint Maybe" has been fully rendered, fleshed out with a palpable interior life, and each has been fit, like a hand-sawed jigsaw-puzzle piece, into the matrix of family life. The result is a warm and generous novel, a novel that attests once again to Ms. Tyler's enormous gifts as a writer and her innate understanding of the mysteries of kinship and blood." And the Washington Post said, “One cannot reasonably expect fiction to be much better than this.”
Here are some lines:
He couldn’t seem to look away. He couldn’t even blink, couldn’t move, because once he moved then time would start rolling forward again, and he already knew that nothing in his life would ever be the same.
His father met him at the terminal. Neither of them knew yet how they were supposed to greet each other after long separations. Hug? Shake hands? His father settled for clapping him on the arm. “How was the trip?” he asked.
They were scared to death of Sister Audrey. She was helping out at Bible camp because she’d had a baby when she wasn’t married and put it in a dumpster and now she was atoning for her sin.
They would be the kind who set off without filling the gas tank first or checking the tire pressure, he was certain. Chances were they wouldn’t even have a road map.
“You think I’m some ninny who wants to do right but keeps goofing. But what you don’t see is, I goof on purpose. I’m not like you: King Careful. Mr. Look-Both-Ways. Saint Maybe.”
Brother Simon always telling us how God had saved him for something special when his apartment building burned down, never explaining what God had against those seven others He didn’t save.
"Kids get into so much! They start to matter so much. Some days I felt like a fireman or a lifeguard or something—all that tedium, broken up by little spurts of high drama.”
And she tipped her head and smiled. After all, she might have said, this was an ordinary occurrence. People changed other people’s lives every day of the year. There was no call to make such a fuss about it.
Petaca Point Trail near Taos – According to Robert Julyan in “The Place Names of New Mexico,” Petaca Mesa (where Petaca Point resides) resembled a clothing trunk to the Spaniards who settled in this land grant area. A trunk is translated to petaca in Spanish, but also translates to “flask,” which may explain why they thought this looked like a trunk. The arroyo that juts out to the northwest from the river here has been used as a travel route for thousands of years by the native people who resided in this area.
I was able to kill two birds with one stone by not only getting in a nice longish hike but also walking our daughter and son-in-love's dogs so they could focus on their new baby girl. All along both rims of the Rio Grande Gorge there are several trails that I hope to explore someday. I’ve done a few of them but there are many. Today I chose the Petaca Point Trail on the west Rim of the gorge. It was around a 25-minute drive from Taos to the trailhead where there were exactly zero vehicles parked. I headed south for 4 miles. The day was sunny with temps in the upper 30s and lower 40s. The first half mile is very cool as it hugs the rim of the gorge while heading up and down some hills. Great views and fun hiking. The next 3.5 miles were a bit dull as it headed away from the rim along an old dirt road. But it was great for the dogs as they could run forever without having to worry about bothering anyone. At Petaca point, the views were incredible both up and down the Rio Grande. I imagine there are petroglyphs around here, but I didn’t find any today. We hung out here for a while checking out the views while the dogs (and I) looked for bighorn sheep. I eventually headed the four miles back to the car as the sun was setting, which made for some beautiful photos of the rim. A nice day outside in this beautiful area.
Rift Valley short loop near Taos – On the following day I took the dogs out again, but on a shorter four-mile loop. This trail is on the east rim of the gorge so only about a 15-minute drive from town. I’ve hiked the Slide Trail and part of the Klauer Trail from this trailhead but had never explored the many other hiking and biking paths on this side of the rim. It was a snowy and windy day, so I bundled up and hoped for epic photo ops. I hugged the east rim along the Rift Valley Trail and also explored some arroyos that weren’t on any official trail but were fun. There are several incredible lookouts along the Rift Valley Trail that winds its way along the rim. I took my time enjoying each lookout, but the most incredible one was where the trail got its name. The canyon below opens up and it looks exactly like what you’d expect a rift valley to look like. It was like something out of Africa with many ridges and canyons going on as far as the eye could see. The snow just added to the beauty of it. I could have kept winding along the rim but decided to head back, so I hooked up with the Klauer Trail which is a sort of north-south artery that connects many of the trails up here. This trail was named for William Klauer, a manufacturer from Iowa whose family purchased the Gijosa Land Grant in 1919. The family donated the land to the BLM in 2001 to preserve this beautiful area and its stunning overlooks for generations to come. I only saw 4 other people out here this Saturday because of the blizzard, but we all shared the same secret...hiking in a blizzard is fun, as long as you’re prepared. It was a fun hike, and the dogs had a blast.
Never Broken by Jewel – When Jewel was asked by Vogue Magazine why she decided to write her memoir now (in 2015), at the age of 40 she replied, “I keep getting this question: How did you go from being abused, to moving out at 15, to being homeless, to turning things around? There were a lot of things I did. Music wasn’t really my main goal in life; my main goal was figuring out how in the heck to be happy. And it’s been a hell of a journey.” Her book tells her story of this incredible journey in close to 400 pages. It’s filled with the drama of her life, poems and song lyrics she’s written about her life, and a philosophy of living life that she has taught herself through her personal experiences and by reading all the great philosophers’ works that she began studying as a teen. Throughout this fascinating story I was constantly amazed at her intelligence, which I believe is the main reason she came out thriving. She told herself as a teenager that if she started killing her pain with drugs and alcohol she would just end up as another statistic, so she swore off ever drinking or doing drugs, even though she suffered such terrible abuse and neglect by both parents.
She tells her story linearly and begins with her remarkable upbringing in Alaska where she alternates between living in poverty in Anchorage to living in poverty on their family’s homestead near Homer. Her father suffered from PTSD not only from his abusive upbringing, but also from his stint in Vietnam. But he also is the reason she became a performer as he would drag her to all the biker bars across Alaska with her pure and sweet voice from the age of four. Her mother was a very new-agey artist who seemed harmless and peaceful until later in life when she wound up spending all of Jewel’s money after convincing her that she was best positioned to be her manager and never really apologized for it. As the years went by Jewel eventually forgave both of them but now only maintains a relationship with her father since he has taken the steps to fix himself.
There are so many great stories in this book like the time she and her brother had to walk 8 miles to school while bleeding and crying after being beaten by their father; or her hitchhiking through Mexico as a teenager; running mule trains in the Grand Canyon as barter for staying in a Havasupai native’s front yard; being discriminated against as the only white girl in a Hawaiian high school; the deal she made with a struggling San Diego coffee shop owner while she was homeless to play music and bring in crowds which was where she was eventually “discovered” by record label executives. Nearly every day I was reading this book I told these stories to my wife and daughter because they were so heart wrenching and powerful.
Jewel does more than most stars in her philanthropy as she helps support homeless teens, helps people struggling with abuse in their lives, and also supports clean water initiatives around the globe. She has learned many lessons throughout her difficult life and wants to share her philosophy on how one can overcome just about anything, because as she says in the book, “I wrote a line in a song once: “We are never broken.” I believe that truly. It is a hard-earned belief, and rose out of many years of experiencing the opposite.”
Here are some lines:
I called my journal “the happiness project,” and I had no idea that it would lead me not only on a journey of deep personal discovery, but would also lead me from the fishing village of Homer, Alaska, to songwriting, to the White House, to the Vatican, to the cover of Time magazine, and beyond. Most important, the exercise of writing and looking inward led me to myself, and to discovering my own definition of happiness. It is a journey I am still on today.
In the off-season we toured native villages, singing for Inuit (we don’t call them Eskimo—it’s a derogatory term). I have dreamy memories of my parents and me being dropped off in an ice field at midnight in broad daylight, as the sun never sets up there, and being picked up by natives on dogsleds and taken to a host’s house. Being presented with a whole moose leg, longer than my body, for dinner, with salty homemade bacon and a concoction of seal oil, sugar, and snow that they passed off as ice cream.
I had never heard the Rolling Stones sing “Wild Horses” or the Beatles sing “Yesterday,” only dad’s acoustic interpretations. For the most part my musical influences were songs, not the artists.
I have so much compassion for my dad. He endured so much as a child, and then he was shipped off to war. He had suffered from PTSD and it was triggered by the divorce and raising us kids and living in the barn. I’m amazed he held it together as well as he did. While he and I did not speak for most of my early career, we have a healthy and loving relationship now.
Most parents take their children to the doctor when they are sick. My mom told me to sit and meditate it away.
Something my life has taught me is not to see things in black and white. People are neither all good nor all bad.
I began to watch people who appeared to be happy. They got outside. They exercised. They did things they found fulfilling in some way. They took care of themselves.
(about Havasupai Falls): We rounded the corner, and I quickened my pace and then stopped suddenly in disbelief. I could not believe my eyes. And even writing about it, you will think I’m lying unless you’ve seen it too. Blue does not begin to describe the supernatural color of this water.
When Yule found out my dad had been smoking, he made my dad strip down naked and then walked around him and whipped his whole body. Yule built many layers of shame and cruelty into his abuse and punishments, in both mind and body. My dad suffered a lot of trauma in his childhood, and then went off to Vietnam and sustained more.
There is a tangible optimism that comes from making a living with your own hands. It’s honest and grounded and down-to-earth, qualities that served me well in a business that was anything but.
I was promptly escorted to the dean’s office and nearly kicked out of school my first day on campus. Apparently showing up with a large skinning knife fastened to your side was frowned upon in classier establishments.
Inga charged in, incredulous. “How can she be broke? She sold seventeen million albums! She wrote every song!” We both looked at my mom. “Where did it all go?” Inga said. My mom sat still as a desert day. Her hands peacefully folded in her lap. A Buddha’s smile on her face. Calm. Tranquil. A payment plan was devised. I don’t remember leaving. I don’t remember the payment plan. I do remember going back to work.
“Why did you hire me? You could have any actress you want. Why me?” He looked at me, his face as calm and smooth as the moon, and said, “You have period teeth.” And that was it. No pep talk. I turned back to the window. I was the only actress who had not fixed her teeth. That’s what had gotten me the role (in Ang Lee's Ride With the Devil). Awesome.
Stealthy and silent, Tupac was again suddenly standing next to me. He spoke softly and looked at me directly with soulful eyes. He said he was headed to Vegas with a whole crew and thought I might have fun if I came. He had a hypnotic but vulnerable quality that was fascinating. I told him I was there with someone but hoped he had fun. He was shot three days later in Vegas.
Do things that lend themselves to the happiness you desire. Exercise. Eat well. Do something that makes you feel joy, even when you don’t feel like it. Surround yourself with people you admire and who add substance to your life.
Williams Lake snowshoe near Taos – I've hiked to Williams Lake during the summer and also post-holed my way up in March, so today I decided to snowshoe my way there which was a good call since the Taos Ski Valley had received 55 inches of snow in the first two weeks of February. There were several backcountry skiers on the trail on this day; they put skins on their skis and laboriously slide their way up 1,000 feet in 2 miles and then have a blast skiing down the many possible ungroomed runs back down the hill. There were a couple of other snowshoers out today plus a couple of folks post-holing their way up which is exhausting based on my March 2022 experience. Now that I’ve been on several snowshoe hikes, I’ve gotten to the point where it’s nearly as easy as walking (assuming someone else has already broken trail before me). The only place I had to break trail was when I headed across the frozen lake to get a nice panoramic view of the towering mountains surrounding this pretty little lake. See my March 2022 writeup of this hike for more information on how the lake was named and a bit of the history of the ski valley. It was great to get some sun and some exercise in on this sunny day with temps in the mid 20s with no wind at all up here at 11,000 feet.
The Double Helix by James D. Watson – This book is on several lists of best non-fiction and best science books. It’s why I finally decided to read it. And some of it was interesting and showed, to some extent, the long and arduous process of scientific discovery. However, I found that I was put off by Watson’s cavalier attitude where he came off as lazy and hungry for fame at the least possible effort. Back in June 2021 my scientist spotlight was Rosalind Franklin who helped Watson and Francis Crick unlock the code to DNA but was never credited with it and was not included in the 1962 Nobel Prize for this discovery. After reading this sort of memoir of the discovery by Watson I can now understand why Franklin was never properly credited at the time. Just a few pages in I came away with the feeling that Watson was sort of an a$$hole and the more he writes, the more I’m convinced of my opinion. It seems that his goal as a scientist was to do the least amount of work possible in order to achieve the most amount of fame he could. He obviously has some level of intelligence, but he certainly doesn’t help his own case in his writing. Even his partner in the discovery, Francis Crick, criticized the book saying that it in no way portrayed his own recollection of the discovery. Harvard Press decided NOT to publish the book after Crick’s criticisms and it went to another publisher. After the Noble Prize was announced, Crick went on to do more important research while Watson stopped scientific research and became more of a manager. This pretty much tells me that Watson only wanted glory, and once achieved, he bailed out. Here are some of the things he said about Rosalind Franklin in the book. Granted, this was written in 1968 but still, the misogyny is blatant:
“mere inspection suggested that she would not easily bend. By choice she did not emphasize her feminine qualities. Though her features were strong, she was not unattractive and might have been quite stunning had she taken even a mild interest in clothes.”
“Also, there was no denying she had a good brain. If she could only keep her emotions under control, there would be a good chance that she could really help him.”
“She spoke to an audience of about fifteen in a quick, nervous style that suited the unornamented old lecture hall in which we were seated. There was not a trace of warmth or frivolity in her words. And yet I could not regard her as totally uninteresting. Momentarily I wondered how she would look if she took off her glasses and did something novel with her hair.”
No wonder she wasn’t credited with helping out on this momentous discovery until long after her death. After her tragic death in 1958, Watson did add this statement in his Epilogue which seems to have come too late in my opinion:
“Rosalind Franklin died at the early age of thirty-seven. Since my initial impressions of her, both scientific and personal (as recorded in the early pages of this book), were often wrong, I want to say something here about her achievements. The X-ray work she did at King’s is increasingly regarded as superb. The sorting out of the A and B forms, by itself, would have made her reputation; even better was her 1952 demonstration, using Patterson superposition methods, that the phosphate groups must be on the outside of the DNA molecule. Later, when she moved to Bernal’s lab, she took up work on tobacco mosaic virus and quickly-extended our Qualitative ideas about helical construction into a precise quantitative picture, definitely establishing the essential helical parameters and locating the ribonucleic chain halfway out from the central axis.”
Cub Lake loop in Rocky Mountain National Park – Back in Colorado after 3 weeks in Taos, I decided to see how my local National Park was looking. I hiked this 6-plus mile loop back in June of 2021 so I wanted to see how different it was in the winter. Very. On that summer hike I saw dozens of elk, two moose, and lots of wildflowers. In winter it was quieter, fewer people, and with a different sort of beauty. I saw elk and deer near the visitor’s center on the drive up but otherwise, only birds on the hike. Temps were in the 40s with a 15-20 mph wind. I brought spikes and snowshoes but needed neither as the trail was partial dirt/mud and slushy snow. There was a quarter mile section above Cub Lake where I might have used snowshoes, but I ended up following someone’s post-holing for a bit instead of strapping on the snowshoes. It turned out to be one of the easier 6-mile winter hikes I’ve done up here so it was more like a leisurely stroll in the park which I quite enjoyed.
Dawn in Siberia by John Clary Davies – When we visit Taos we’ve been staying in the home of friends of our daughter and son-in-love. They have a library that suits my tastes (I counted 70 books that I’ve read and 30 that were on my reading list) with authors ranging from Marilynne Robinson to Cormac McCarthy to Haruki Murakami. One book I borrowed was written by the guy whose home we were staying in! John was at one time the executive editor of Powder Magazine, a skier’s magazine (because, well, everyone in Taos is connected to skiing it seems).
John, along with photographer Kari Medig and some professional skiers and translators went on a month-long winter trip to Siberia to report on its fascinating skiing scene. The report, and photographs, ended up having so much information they turned it into the magazine’s first ever book. John’s description of the barren, snowy landscapes of Siberia convinced me never to go there in winter and explained why various Russian governments have been sending their dissidents to Siberia for nearly 500 years. And the people, wow; these people were reminiscent of the Alaskan homesteaders in Jewel’s autobiography (see above). Many of them make their own skis using an axe and a planer, along with other homemade equipment to bend them to the correct shape and camber for the landscape in which they live. They use different animal skins on their skis for uphill slogs depending upon the texture of the snow. Skis are critical to their survival during their 6-month winter, and they use them for hunting, traveling, and recreation. Injuries in some of these remote places can be fatal with modern hospitals hundreds of miles away with a limited means of transport in winter. One of the skiers dislocated a shoulder and the locals there put him on a bench and pulled his arm back into its socket…OK you’re good to go! I really enjoyed the stories of these remote places and the people who live there. And the photos were terrific; check some of them out here.
Here are some lines I enjoyed:
Since he shot his first bear at age 14, Vitaly has killed 25 more, but most of his income comes from selling sable furs (this is 2014!)
Residents have no running water. Electricity, powered by a generator, is only available from 7 to 10pm each night. The village has just one telephone.
In the longest, snowiest winters on the planet, they use skis to survive, and to prosper. They make their own boards, build their own backcountry huts…
Siberia has five rivers wider than the Mississippi.
Though several people ..told me it was the warmest winter they could remember, the average temperature in Irkutsk in January was sill minus 2 degrees Fahrenheit.
The imposing Russian was in the nude, wearing a wool Tyrolean-style hat with the Russian word for “avalanche” stitched into it. In line with banya (sauna) custom, he wetted a bouquet of oak branches and began slapping me on the chest and on the back.
Our driver, a young man who took any chance he could to have a smoke, wore his seatbelt only when we passed police, unbuckling it as soon as they were out of view. That last sentence probably wouldn’t surprise anybody who has spent much time in Russia.
In the morning, the sky cleared for the first time in a week. In all, it had snowed between six and 10 feet.
The oldest known ski artifacts are from Russia, from 8,000 years ago.
I saw horses, cows, and haystacks. Kids played in the snow. The scene couldn’t have looked much different than it did a century ago.
Natasha made bread, soup, and served antelope…The family hunted for or grew all of the food…After dinner, Vitaly served tea made from truffles growing under the birch tree. We added honey, taken from a nearby hive.
Incredibly, this hunter in an indigenous Siberian village of 50 with no daytime access to electricity, builds skis with the same profile the modern ski industry had only recently figured out.
One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest by Ken Kesey – Another book that I’ve found on several “best of” lists. I suppose I hadn’t read this 1962 novel because the 1975 movie starring Jack Nicholson was so great. Plus, there was the fact that Ken Kesey was famous for his association with the beatnik/hippie generation, LSD experiments, The Grateful Dead, and Rolling Stone Magazine; so, I wondered if maybe the novel was overrated due to his fame. Anyway, I found it sitting there on a bookshelf in Taos just begging me to give it a try. I couldn’t put it down. Unlike the movie, the book was narrated by “Chief”, the large Native American resident of the psychiatric ward in Oregon. Chief had been locked up in the ward for years and fooled everyone into believing he was deaf and mute, which suited his solitary nature perfectly. His narration was a sort of bumpy ride between the reality of what was going on with the ward’s staff and patients, and the hallucinogenic visions that the Chief experienced related to his understanding of how the system (The Combine in his mind) controlled everyone. Kesey had lots of personal experience with LSD and psilocybin trips, so he was certainly qualified to write about having them. The Chief also was able to tell a bit of his upbringing along the fishing villages of the Columbia River and how his father (who was a chief) finally ended up selling their land to the white man for their dams because he knew that if he didn’t sell, then their land would have been taken anyway.
Life in the ward changed drastically when Randle McMurphy barged into the quiet and lonely lives of the residents and staff. In the book McMurphy was a large red-headed Irishman which is why Kesey favored Gene Hackman for the role. Nicholson didn’t look anything like the man in the novel, but all the other mannerisms were spot on. I couldn’t get Nicholson out of my mind whenever the character was playing his power games with the subtly evil Nurse Ratched (who was played brilliantly by Ellen Burstyn in the movie). The fishing boat scene, the late-night party at the ward, and the big escape were all written so well that it was like I was hearing the story for the first time. Kesey had also worked in a VA hospital psychiatric wing, so he saw a lot of this firsthand. He believed we were institutionalizing too many people just because they didn’t fit into society at the time. The early 60s were also a time when the world was coming to understand that things like shock therapy and lobotomies were cruel and inhuman. Of course, in the novel, as in the movie, McMurphy eventually underwent both “treatments” after he attacked Nurse Ratched for instigating the suicide of his good friend, the stuttering Billy Bibbit.
I enjoyed every aspect of this novel. The characters, especially the three main characters (McMurphy, Chief, and Nurse Ratched), the power struggle between McMurphy and Nurse Ratched, and the wild scenes in and out of the ward. Do yourself a favor and watch the movie again, or better yet, read this book.
The Word for World is Forest by Ursula K. Le Guin - I'll sadly never be able to read all of Le Guin's works. She's published around 30 novels and novellas along with several short stories, essays, and children's books. She was a prolific writer which normally makes me wonder if the quality of her work suffers from too much content put out so quickly. But she received numerous awards, including eight Hugo Awards and six Nebula Awards which are the pinnacle for science fiction writing. She passed in 2018 at the age of 88 and published her works for 59 of those years. This is now the fourth book of hers that I've read and each of them have been great (No Time to Spare, The Left Hand of Darkness, and A Wizard of Earthsea).
Rather than my normal artist description I’ll refer you to this month’s review of Jewel’s terrific autobiography, Never Broken, below. And after reading the book I naturally decided to highlight some of her songs that I enjoy.
Hands – This is probably the first song of hers that I listened to and it’s still on my playlist rotation. She wrote this when she was 16 and homeless. Jewel told Billboard Magazine in 1998 that, "I knew if I could tell the world, my hands are so little, how can they have impact on the world? They seem like tiny little weapons. I can't fight with despair, thoughtlessness. They're not the solution, but they are the first step forward."
Sample lyrics:
If I could tell the world just one thing
It would be that we're all okay
Not to worry 'cause worry is wasteful
And useless in times like these
…In the end, only kindness matters
I Am My Father's Daughter with Dolly Parton – Jewel’s father suffered from PTSD, not only from his stint in Vietnam, but also from his cruel upbringing. It took many years, but Jewel finally forgave him for the abuses she suffered from him directly and indirectly. This song is a sort of reflection of that forgiveness and includes home video of her growing up in the Alaskan wilderness; plus you can’t go wrong singing with Dolly.
Sample lyrics:
I am my father's daughter
He has his mother's eyes
I am the product of her sacrifice
I am the accumulation of the dreams of generations
And their stories live in me like holy water
No More Tears – Jewel has been involved in solving the homeless crisis ever since she was able to pull herself out of that condition. This song addresses the issue. It showcases her incredible and soulful voice.
Sample lyrics:
Heartbreak is like the weather, ravaging my soul
But I know, it moves on
And storms are followed by the most beautiful blue skies
I will keep carrying on
Stay Here Forever – I love this breezy song from her “country” album titled Sweet and Wild. Nothing deep, just a song about enjoying the one you love on a nice day. It was the opening song for Gary Marshall’s movie Valentine’s Day.
Standing Still – Written during a 3-year hiatus from the music business, Jewel said of this song, “It’s about the irony of how much a person travels in my job, and how it can really cause your emotional life to stand still,” she said. “Fame really tolerates a prolonged adolescence, and your fame and career can outgrow your ability to handle it. You can get really spoiled, and I wanted to get away from [that] and make sure I wasn’t standing still.”
Somewhere Over the Rainbow – My wife and I saw her live a few years ago and what I couldn’t get over was her voice. It was perfect. And she performed the best version of this song I had ever heard.
Ave Maria - If you need anymore proof as to how great her voice is, check out this powerful version of Ave Maria from her really good Christmas album.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijV1e_5ts6E
Saint Maybe by Anne Tyler - Sitting down with an Anne Tyler book is like being a fly on the wall while you watch in fascination at how a normal everyday family copes with its daily joys and tragedies. I'm pretty sure I've said this before but if you think your family has had a boring life, ask Anne Tyler to write about it and you will be reminded of the daily struggles and wonders that a family life contains. I've previously read four of her novels (The Accidental Tourist, Breathing Lessons, The Amateur Marriage, and Dinner at the Homesick Restaurant) and have loved them all. So, I was sure I was in safe hands.
Saint Maybe tells the story of Ian and his family. When the story begins, Ian is 17 years old as he confronts his older brother about his wife's possible infidelity. Tragic events unfold after this reveal, and Ian is left to deal with the collateral damage. His plans to go to college get interrupted when he drops into a random church (called the Church of the Second Chance) where he gets hard-to-hear advice from the preacher which changes the course of his life. Ian quits school and sets about to help his aging parents raise the three children left behind after all the tragic events. What enfolds is a story of grace, forgiveness, and redemption as Ian watches the children grow up and his parents grow older. Each character in the book plays their part in this family drama that kept me mesmerized and never wanting to stop reading. Somehow Tyler manages to produce satisfying endings to stories that seem to have no end in sight.
A 1991 New York Times review had this to say about the novel: "Each character in "Saint Maybe" has been fully rendered, fleshed out with a palpable interior life, and each has been fit, like a hand-sawed jigsaw-puzzle piece, into the matrix of family life. The result is a warm and generous novel, a novel that attests once again to Ms. Tyler's enormous gifts as a writer and her innate understanding of the mysteries of kinship and blood." And the Washington Post said, “One cannot reasonably expect fiction to be much better than this.”
Here are some lines:
He couldn’t seem to look away. He couldn’t even blink, couldn’t move, because once he moved then time would start rolling forward again, and he already knew that nothing in his life would ever be the same.
His father met him at the terminal. Neither of them knew yet how they were supposed to greet each other after long separations. Hug? Shake hands? His father settled for clapping him on the arm. “How was the trip?” he asked.
They were scared to death of Sister Audrey. She was helping out at Bible camp because she’d had a baby when she wasn’t married and put it in a dumpster and now she was atoning for her sin.
They would be the kind who set off without filling the gas tank first or checking the tire pressure, he was certain. Chances were they wouldn’t even have a road map.
“You think I’m some ninny who wants to do right but keeps goofing. But what you don’t see is, I goof on purpose. I’m not like you: King Careful. Mr. Look-Both-Ways. Saint Maybe.”
Brother Simon always telling us how God had saved him for something special when his apartment building burned down, never explaining what God had against those seven others He didn’t save.
"Kids get into so much! They start to matter so much. Some days I felt like a fireman or a lifeguard or something—all that tedium, broken up by little spurts of high drama.”
And she tipped her head and smiled. After all, she might have said, this was an ordinary occurrence. People changed other people’s lives every day of the year. There was no call to make such a fuss about it.
Petaca Point Trail near Taos – According to Robert Julyan in “The Place Names of New Mexico,” Petaca Mesa (where Petaca Point resides) resembled a clothing trunk to the Spaniards who settled in this land grant area. A trunk is translated to petaca in Spanish, but also translates to “flask,” which may explain why they thought this looked like a trunk. The arroyo that juts out to the northwest from the river here has been used as a travel route for thousands of years by the native people who resided in this area.
I was able to kill two birds with one stone by not only getting in a nice longish hike but also walking our daughter and son-in-love's dogs so they could focus on their new baby girl. All along both rims of the Rio Grande Gorge there are several trails that I hope to explore someday. I’ve done a few of them but there are many. Today I chose the Petaca Point Trail on the west Rim of the gorge. It was around a 25-minute drive from Taos to the trailhead where there were exactly zero vehicles parked. I headed south for 4 miles. The day was sunny with temps in the upper 30s and lower 40s. The first half mile is very cool as it hugs the rim of the gorge while heading up and down some hills. Great views and fun hiking. The next 3.5 miles were a bit dull as it headed away from the rim along an old dirt road. But it was great for the dogs as they could run forever without having to worry about bothering anyone. At Petaca point, the views were incredible both up and down the Rio Grande. I imagine there are petroglyphs around here, but I didn’t find any today. We hung out here for a while checking out the views while the dogs (and I) looked for bighorn sheep. I eventually headed the four miles back to the car as the sun was setting, which made for some beautiful photos of the rim. A nice day outside in this beautiful area.
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Big skies |
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Much of the hike was through sagebrush with great views |
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Even the dogs loved the views (or were maybe looking for bighorn sheep) |
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Petaca Point views of the Rio Grande |
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Looking north with the Rio Grande winding |
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Dogs finding snow to cool off in |
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White-capped mountains peeking (and peaking) above the sagebrush |
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Big ole sun |
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Aspen glow on the mountains with the gorge as foreground |
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Sunset coloring the cliffs |
Rift Valley short loop near Taos – On the following day I took the dogs out again, but on a shorter four-mile loop. This trail is on the east rim of the gorge so only about a 15-minute drive from town. I’ve hiked the Slide Trail and part of the Klauer Trail from this trailhead but had never explored the many other hiking and biking paths on this side of the rim. It was a snowy and windy day, so I bundled up and hoped for epic photo ops. I hugged the east rim along the Rift Valley Trail and also explored some arroyos that weren’t on any official trail but were fun. There are several incredible lookouts along the Rift Valley Trail that winds its way along the rim. I took my time enjoying each lookout, but the most incredible one was where the trail got its name. The canyon below opens up and it looks exactly like what you’d expect a rift valley to look like. It was like something out of Africa with many ridges and canyons going on as far as the eye could see. The snow just added to the beauty of it. I could have kept winding along the rim but decided to head back, so I hooked up with the Klauer Trail which is a sort of north-south artery that connects many of the trails up here. This trail was named for William Klauer, a manufacturer from Iowa whose family purchased the Gijosa Land Grant in 1919. The family donated the land to the BLM in 2001 to preserve this beautiful area and its stunning overlooks for generations to come. I only saw 4 other people out here this Saturday because of the blizzard, but we all shared the same secret...hiking in a blizzard is fun, as long as you’re prepared. It was a fun hike, and the dogs had a blast.
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Snowy and windy day on the rim of the gorge |
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Dogs had no problem finding snow today |
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Off trail down an arroyo |
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Snow encrusted pinon tree |
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Addressing his kingdom |
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Snow cactus above the Rift Valley |
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Appropriately named Rift Valley |
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These handy maps were on many of the mile markers |
Never Broken by Jewel – When Jewel was asked by Vogue Magazine why she decided to write her memoir now (in 2015), at the age of 40 she replied, “I keep getting this question: How did you go from being abused, to moving out at 15, to being homeless, to turning things around? There were a lot of things I did. Music wasn’t really my main goal in life; my main goal was figuring out how in the heck to be happy. And it’s been a hell of a journey.” Her book tells her story of this incredible journey in close to 400 pages. It’s filled with the drama of her life, poems and song lyrics she’s written about her life, and a philosophy of living life that she has taught herself through her personal experiences and by reading all the great philosophers’ works that she began studying as a teen. Throughout this fascinating story I was constantly amazed at her intelligence, which I believe is the main reason she came out thriving. She told herself as a teenager that if she started killing her pain with drugs and alcohol she would just end up as another statistic, so she swore off ever drinking or doing drugs, even though she suffered such terrible abuse and neglect by both parents.
She tells her story linearly and begins with her remarkable upbringing in Alaska where she alternates between living in poverty in Anchorage to living in poverty on their family’s homestead near Homer. Her father suffered from PTSD not only from his abusive upbringing, but also from his stint in Vietnam. But he also is the reason she became a performer as he would drag her to all the biker bars across Alaska with her pure and sweet voice from the age of four. Her mother was a very new-agey artist who seemed harmless and peaceful until later in life when she wound up spending all of Jewel’s money after convincing her that she was best positioned to be her manager and never really apologized for it. As the years went by Jewel eventually forgave both of them but now only maintains a relationship with her father since he has taken the steps to fix himself.
There are so many great stories in this book like the time she and her brother had to walk 8 miles to school while bleeding and crying after being beaten by their father; or her hitchhiking through Mexico as a teenager; running mule trains in the Grand Canyon as barter for staying in a Havasupai native’s front yard; being discriminated against as the only white girl in a Hawaiian high school; the deal she made with a struggling San Diego coffee shop owner while she was homeless to play music and bring in crowds which was where she was eventually “discovered” by record label executives. Nearly every day I was reading this book I told these stories to my wife and daughter because they were so heart wrenching and powerful.
Jewel does more than most stars in her philanthropy as she helps support homeless teens, helps people struggling with abuse in their lives, and also supports clean water initiatives around the globe. She has learned many lessons throughout her difficult life and wants to share her philosophy on how one can overcome just about anything, because as she says in the book, “I wrote a line in a song once: “We are never broken.” I believe that truly. It is a hard-earned belief, and rose out of many years of experiencing the opposite.”
Here are some lines:
I called my journal “the happiness project,” and I had no idea that it would lead me not only on a journey of deep personal discovery, but would also lead me from the fishing village of Homer, Alaska, to songwriting, to the White House, to the Vatican, to the cover of Time magazine, and beyond. Most important, the exercise of writing and looking inward led me to myself, and to discovering my own definition of happiness. It is a journey I am still on today.
In the off-season we toured native villages, singing for Inuit (we don’t call them Eskimo—it’s a derogatory term). I have dreamy memories of my parents and me being dropped off in an ice field at midnight in broad daylight, as the sun never sets up there, and being picked up by natives on dogsleds and taken to a host’s house. Being presented with a whole moose leg, longer than my body, for dinner, with salty homemade bacon and a concoction of seal oil, sugar, and snow that they passed off as ice cream.
I had never heard the Rolling Stones sing “Wild Horses” or the Beatles sing “Yesterday,” only dad’s acoustic interpretations. For the most part my musical influences were songs, not the artists.
I have so much compassion for my dad. He endured so much as a child, and then he was shipped off to war. He had suffered from PTSD and it was triggered by the divorce and raising us kids and living in the barn. I’m amazed he held it together as well as he did. While he and I did not speak for most of my early career, we have a healthy and loving relationship now.
Most parents take their children to the doctor when they are sick. My mom told me to sit and meditate it away.
Something my life has taught me is not to see things in black and white. People are neither all good nor all bad.
I began to watch people who appeared to be happy. They got outside. They exercised. They did things they found fulfilling in some way. They took care of themselves.
(about Havasupai Falls): We rounded the corner, and I quickened my pace and then stopped suddenly in disbelief. I could not believe my eyes. And even writing about it, you will think I’m lying unless you’ve seen it too. Blue does not begin to describe the supernatural color of this water.
When Yule found out my dad had been smoking, he made my dad strip down naked and then walked around him and whipped his whole body. Yule built many layers of shame and cruelty into his abuse and punishments, in both mind and body. My dad suffered a lot of trauma in his childhood, and then went off to Vietnam and sustained more.
There is a tangible optimism that comes from making a living with your own hands. It’s honest and grounded and down-to-earth, qualities that served me well in a business that was anything but.
I was promptly escorted to the dean’s office and nearly kicked out of school my first day on campus. Apparently showing up with a large skinning knife fastened to your side was frowned upon in classier establishments.
Inga charged in, incredulous. “How can she be broke? She sold seventeen million albums! She wrote every song!” We both looked at my mom. “Where did it all go?” Inga said. My mom sat still as a desert day. Her hands peacefully folded in her lap. A Buddha’s smile on her face. Calm. Tranquil. A payment plan was devised. I don’t remember leaving. I don’t remember the payment plan. I do remember going back to work.
“Why did you hire me? You could have any actress you want. Why me?” He looked at me, his face as calm and smooth as the moon, and said, “You have period teeth.” And that was it. No pep talk. I turned back to the window. I was the only actress who had not fixed her teeth. That’s what had gotten me the role (in Ang Lee's Ride With the Devil). Awesome.
Stealthy and silent, Tupac was again suddenly standing next to me. He spoke softly and looked at me directly with soulful eyes. He said he was headed to Vegas with a whole crew and thought I might have fun if I came. He had a hypnotic but vulnerable quality that was fascinating. I told him I was there with someone but hoped he had fun. He was shot three days later in Vegas.
Do things that lend themselves to the happiness you desire. Exercise. Eat well. Do something that makes you feel joy, even when you don’t feel like it. Surround yourself with people you admire and who add substance to your life.
Williams Lake snowshoe near Taos – I've hiked to Williams Lake during the summer and also post-holed my way up in March, so today I decided to snowshoe my way there which was a good call since the Taos Ski Valley had received 55 inches of snow in the first two weeks of February. There were several backcountry skiers on the trail on this day; they put skins on their skis and laboriously slide their way up 1,000 feet in 2 miles and then have a blast skiing down the many possible ungroomed runs back down the hill. There were a couple of other snowshoers out today plus a couple of folks post-holing their way up which is exhausting based on my March 2022 experience. Now that I’ve been on several snowshoe hikes, I’ve gotten to the point where it’s nearly as easy as walking (assuming someone else has already broken trail before me). The only place I had to break trail was when I headed across the frozen lake to get a nice panoramic view of the towering mountains surrounding this pretty little lake. See my March 2022 writeup of this hike for more information on how the lake was named and a bit of the history of the ski valley. It was great to get some sun and some exercise in on this sunny day with temps in the mid 20s with no wind at all up here at 11,000 feet.
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LOTS of snow |
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Luckily I didn't have to break trail |
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Moguls waiting to be skied |
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First views of the cirque |
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Williams Lake is between these two ski tracks |
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Skiers were enjoying this little downhill section |
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Skiers outnumber hikers and snowshoers up here |
The Double Helix by James D. Watson – This book is on several lists of best non-fiction and best science books. It’s why I finally decided to read it. And some of it was interesting and showed, to some extent, the long and arduous process of scientific discovery. However, I found that I was put off by Watson’s cavalier attitude where he came off as lazy and hungry for fame at the least possible effort. Back in June 2021 my scientist spotlight was Rosalind Franklin who helped Watson and Francis Crick unlock the code to DNA but was never credited with it and was not included in the 1962 Nobel Prize for this discovery. After reading this sort of memoir of the discovery by Watson I can now understand why Franklin was never properly credited at the time. Just a few pages in I came away with the feeling that Watson was sort of an a$$hole and the more he writes, the more I’m convinced of my opinion. It seems that his goal as a scientist was to do the least amount of work possible in order to achieve the most amount of fame he could. He obviously has some level of intelligence, but he certainly doesn’t help his own case in his writing. Even his partner in the discovery, Francis Crick, criticized the book saying that it in no way portrayed his own recollection of the discovery. Harvard Press decided NOT to publish the book after Crick’s criticisms and it went to another publisher. After the Noble Prize was announced, Crick went on to do more important research while Watson stopped scientific research and became more of a manager. This pretty much tells me that Watson only wanted glory, and once achieved, he bailed out. Here are some of the things he said about Rosalind Franklin in the book. Granted, this was written in 1968 but still, the misogyny is blatant:
“mere inspection suggested that she would not easily bend. By choice she did not emphasize her feminine qualities. Though her features were strong, she was not unattractive and might have been quite stunning had she taken even a mild interest in clothes.”
“Also, there was no denying she had a good brain. If she could only keep her emotions under control, there would be a good chance that she could really help him.”
“She spoke to an audience of about fifteen in a quick, nervous style that suited the unornamented old lecture hall in which we were seated. There was not a trace of warmth or frivolity in her words. And yet I could not regard her as totally uninteresting. Momentarily I wondered how she would look if she took off her glasses and did something novel with her hair.”
No wonder she wasn’t credited with helping out on this momentous discovery until long after her death. After her tragic death in 1958, Watson did add this statement in his Epilogue which seems to have come too late in my opinion:
“Rosalind Franklin died at the early age of thirty-seven. Since my initial impressions of her, both scientific and personal (as recorded in the early pages of this book), were often wrong, I want to say something here about her achievements. The X-ray work she did at King’s is increasingly regarded as superb. The sorting out of the A and B forms, by itself, would have made her reputation; even better was her 1952 demonstration, using Patterson superposition methods, that the phosphate groups must be on the outside of the DNA molecule. Later, when she moved to Bernal’s lab, she took up work on tobacco mosaic virus and quickly-extended our Qualitative ideas about helical construction into a precise quantitative picture, definitely establishing the essential helical parameters and locating the ribonucleic chain halfway out from the central axis.”
Cub Lake loop in Rocky Mountain National Park – Back in Colorado after 3 weeks in Taos, I decided to see how my local National Park was looking. I hiked this 6-plus mile loop back in June of 2021 so I wanted to see how different it was in the winter. Very. On that summer hike I saw dozens of elk, two moose, and lots of wildflowers. In winter it was quieter, fewer people, and with a different sort of beauty. I saw elk and deer near the visitor’s center on the drive up but otherwise, only birds on the hike. Temps were in the 40s with a 15-20 mph wind. I brought spikes and snowshoes but needed neither as the trail was partial dirt/mud and slushy snow. There was a quarter mile section above Cub Lake where I might have used snowshoes, but I ended up following someone’s post-holing for a bit instead of strapping on the snowshoes. It turned out to be one of the easier 6-mile winter hikes I’ve done up here so it was more like a leisurely stroll in the park which I quite enjoyed.
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View from near the trailhead |
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Moraine Park |
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Snow got deeper as I climbed higher |
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Creepy tree waving |
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Cub Lake frozen over |
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Colorfully twisted trunk |
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Baby pine trees peeking through the snow |
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The Pool near the Cub Lake/Fern Lake junction |
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Big Thompson River peeking through the snow |
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Big Thompson near the trailhead |
John, along with photographer Kari Medig and some professional skiers and translators went on a month-long winter trip to Siberia to report on its fascinating skiing scene. The report, and photographs, ended up having so much information they turned it into the magazine’s first ever book. John’s description of the barren, snowy landscapes of Siberia convinced me never to go there in winter and explained why various Russian governments have been sending their dissidents to Siberia for nearly 500 years. And the people, wow; these people were reminiscent of the Alaskan homesteaders in Jewel’s autobiography (see above). Many of them make their own skis using an axe and a planer, along with other homemade equipment to bend them to the correct shape and camber for the landscape in which they live. They use different animal skins on their skis for uphill slogs depending upon the texture of the snow. Skis are critical to their survival during their 6-month winter, and they use them for hunting, traveling, and recreation. Injuries in some of these remote places can be fatal with modern hospitals hundreds of miles away with a limited means of transport in winter. One of the skiers dislocated a shoulder and the locals there put him on a bench and pulled his arm back into its socket…OK you’re good to go! I really enjoyed the stories of these remote places and the people who live there. And the photos were terrific; check some of them out here.
Here are some lines I enjoyed:
Since he shot his first bear at age 14, Vitaly has killed 25 more, but most of his income comes from selling sable furs (this is 2014!)
Residents have no running water. Electricity, powered by a generator, is only available from 7 to 10pm each night. The village has just one telephone.
In the longest, snowiest winters on the planet, they use skis to survive, and to prosper. They make their own boards, build their own backcountry huts…
Siberia has five rivers wider than the Mississippi.
Though several people ..told me it was the warmest winter they could remember, the average temperature in Irkutsk in January was sill minus 2 degrees Fahrenheit.
The imposing Russian was in the nude, wearing a wool Tyrolean-style hat with the Russian word for “avalanche” stitched into it. In line with banya (sauna) custom, he wetted a bouquet of oak branches and began slapping me on the chest and on the back.
Our driver, a young man who took any chance he could to have a smoke, wore his seatbelt only when we passed police, unbuckling it as soon as they were out of view. That last sentence probably wouldn’t surprise anybody who has spent much time in Russia.
In the morning, the sky cleared for the first time in a week. In all, it had snowed between six and 10 feet.
The oldest known ski artifacts are from Russia, from 8,000 years ago.
I saw horses, cows, and haystacks. Kids played in the snow. The scene couldn’t have looked much different than it did a century ago.
Natasha made bread, soup, and served antelope…The family hunted for or grew all of the food…After dinner, Vitaly served tea made from truffles growing under the birch tree. We added honey, taken from a nearby hive.
Incredibly, this hunter in an indigenous Siberian village of 50 with no daytime access to electricity, builds skis with the same profile the modern ski industry had only recently figured out.
One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest by Ken Kesey – Another book that I’ve found on several “best of” lists. I suppose I hadn’t read this 1962 novel because the 1975 movie starring Jack Nicholson was so great. Plus, there was the fact that Ken Kesey was famous for his association with the beatnik/hippie generation, LSD experiments, The Grateful Dead, and Rolling Stone Magazine; so, I wondered if maybe the novel was overrated due to his fame. Anyway, I found it sitting there on a bookshelf in Taos just begging me to give it a try. I couldn’t put it down. Unlike the movie, the book was narrated by “Chief”, the large Native American resident of the psychiatric ward in Oregon. Chief had been locked up in the ward for years and fooled everyone into believing he was deaf and mute, which suited his solitary nature perfectly. His narration was a sort of bumpy ride between the reality of what was going on with the ward’s staff and patients, and the hallucinogenic visions that the Chief experienced related to his understanding of how the system (The Combine in his mind) controlled everyone. Kesey had lots of personal experience with LSD and psilocybin trips, so he was certainly qualified to write about having them. The Chief also was able to tell a bit of his upbringing along the fishing villages of the Columbia River and how his father (who was a chief) finally ended up selling their land to the white man for their dams because he knew that if he didn’t sell, then their land would have been taken anyway.
Life in the ward changed drastically when Randle McMurphy barged into the quiet and lonely lives of the residents and staff. In the book McMurphy was a large red-headed Irishman which is why Kesey favored Gene Hackman for the role. Nicholson didn’t look anything like the man in the novel, but all the other mannerisms were spot on. I couldn’t get Nicholson out of my mind whenever the character was playing his power games with the subtly evil Nurse Ratched (who was played brilliantly by Ellen Burstyn in the movie). The fishing boat scene, the late-night party at the ward, and the big escape were all written so well that it was like I was hearing the story for the first time. Kesey had also worked in a VA hospital psychiatric wing, so he saw a lot of this firsthand. He believed we were institutionalizing too many people just because they didn’t fit into society at the time. The early 60s were also a time when the world was coming to understand that things like shock therapy and lobotomies were cruel and inhuman. Of course, in the novel, as in the movie, McMurphy eventually underwent both “treatments” after he attacked Nurse Ratched for instigating the suicide of his good friend, the stuttering Billy Bibbit.
I enjoyed every aspect of this novel. The characters, especially the three main characters (McMurphy, Chief, and Nurse Ratched), the power struggle between McMurphy and Nurse Ratched, and the wild scenes in and out of the ward. Do yourself a favor and watch the movie again, or better yet, read this book.
Brainard Lake snowshoe near Ward - I leapt at the chance of doing a snowshoe near Brainard Lake on this last day of February. I stitched together five different trails to create a nice 6.6 mile loop starting from the winter parking lot at the beautiful Brainard Lake Recreation area. There were several cross country skiers and snowshoers in the parking lot when I arrived, but I only saw four people on the loop trail I created. These four people that I saw were all older than me (two women and two men), and they were JOGGING with snowshoes! I was trudging with snowshoes. They were JOGGING. In SHOWSHOES. OLDER than me. These crazy people in Colorado are always making it a point to show how puny my outdoor fitness is. They all smiled at me with that look of athletic superiority and said, "Wow, we NEVER see anybody else out here." So they do this all the time. Ah well, it was a beautiful bluebird winter day in the 30s with a bit of wind, but most of the trail was in the trees so the wind wasn't an issue. For the first couple of miles along the Sourdough and South St. Vrain trails I was following a ski track so I wasn't technically breaking trail but it was still work. At two miles is when I ran into the snowshoe runners and they had tamped down the trail pretty good so it was easier going all the way to Brainard Lake. At the lake I stopped for a while to take in the magnificent views from here before heading through all the campgrounds and then onto a snowshoe trail and then up on the Waldrop trail for the final 1.6 miles back to the car. I was pretty pooped when I got there. Over six miles with snowshoes on is a pretty good workout. No animal sightings today which is pretty normal for winter time. It was sure beautiful though. JOGGING! In SNOWSHOES!
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Snow covered bridge over the South St. Vrain |
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South St. Vrain peeking through the snow |
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These are the ski tracks I followed the first 2 miles |
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Snow covered snowshoes |
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Brainard Lake views |
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Love the peaks up here |
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No cars at Brainard because the road is closed in winter |
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Pretty |
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Little snowshoe guy showing the way |
The Word for World is Forest by Ursula K. Le Guin - I'll sadly never be able to read all of Le Guin's works. She's published around 30 novels and novellas along with several short stories, essays, and children's books. She was a prolific writer which normally makes me wonder if the quality of her work suffers from too much content put out so quickly. But she received numerous awards, including eight Hugo Awards and six Nebula Awards which are the pinnacle for science fiction writing. She passed in 2018 at the age of 88 and published her works for 59 of those years. This is now the fourth book of hers that I've read and each of them have been great (No Time to Spare, The Left Hand of Darkness, and A Wizard of Earthsea).
In this novella (around 200 pages) she somehow manages to include the themes of colonization, war, racism, slavery, violence, and environmental exploitation in a riveting story. The premise is that a colony of people from Earth (Terra) have landed on the planet Athshe in order to strip it of lumber which is in short supply back on Earth (along with most animals other than rats). There are short, furry and peaceful humanoids that live on Athshe and the colonizers enslave many of them to work the logging camps and serve as housemaids and servants. Many of the female Athsheans are raped by the colonizers, similar to the way female slaves were treated in the United States.
As the story begins, a shipment of 200 females from Earth arrives in order to keep the lumber workers satisfied and to start populating the planet with their own species. One of the Athsheans, Selver, learns all about the people from Earth by studying with the resident human anthropologist and although Selver is technically his servant, they form a friendship. When one of the military leaders rapes Selver's wife, he retaliates and is nearly killed by the military man but the anthropologist steps in to save him. Some of the Athsheans, including Selver, are able to enter a dream like state on demand in which they get messages from somewhere (maybe the trees?) about how to act. The message he gets is that basically their planet will be doomed if the Earthlings continue to ravage the land and start breeding. Therefore the Athsheans will have to go against their nature and destroy them. Battles ensue and the sheer number of Athsheans eventually overpower the humans and force them to leave. But the cost of this action is that war and killing are introduced to the Athsheans and those traits will remain in the real world from now on.
Le Guin was an anti war protester during (and after) Vietnam, and the parallels here are pretty straightforward; rogue groups of military men burning and destroying villages using fire bombs, destruction of the vegetation and land that the locals need for survival, rape and torture. But the saddest part to me was that the once peaceful Athsheans were now forever tainted by the killing they had to undertake. That endless cycle of war that we'll never figure out here on Earth.
Here are some lines:
clean sawn planks, more prized on Earth than gold. Literally, because gold could be got from seawater and from under the Antarctic ice, but wood could not; wood came only from trees. And it was a really necessary luxury on Earth. So the alien forests became wood.
The most winning characteristic of the rather harsh Cetian temperament was curiosity, inopportune and inexhaustible curiosity; Cetians died eagerly, curious as to what came next.
old women are different from everybody else, they say what they think. The Athsheans are governed, in so far as they have government, by old women. Intellect to the men, politics to the women, and ethics to the interaction of both: that’s their arrangement.
Selver had brought a new word into the language of his people. He had done a new deed. The word, the deed, murder. Only a god could lead so great a newcomer as Death across the bridge between the worlds.
“What are they doing?” abruptly becomes, “What are we doing?” and then, “What must I do?”
In diversity is life and where there’s life there’s hope, was the general sum of his creed,
All anticipation of triumph went out of Selver. There was no triumph in the world any more, only death.
There’s nothing to kill on Rendlep. No trees, no people. There were trees and people, but now there are only the dreams of them.
Until next time, happy reading and rambling!